Abu Dhabi's Urban Treasures

Abu Al Afwal

In several Arab countries, foul – a stewed fava bean meal – has long been hailed as the "breakfast of champions" for its protein-packed goodness.

However, in the heart of Abu Dhabi's busy Tourist Club Area, a unique culinary tradition at one restaurant defies the breakfast norm. Abu Al Afwal Cafeteria, lovingly known as the "father of flava beans", does not serve foul in the morning; rather, the feast begins at 5.30pm.

Minutes before opening, cars begin queuing up outside the petite restaurant, eager to collect their orders of foul. Despite its modest size, the restaurant possesses an undeniable charm that appeals to both locals and tourists.

A single plate of foul, big enough to feed two, costs Dh15 and is accompanied by a hearty serving of bread. For those seeking a more mobile option, a sandwich filled with the spiced and pounded beans can be bought for Dh5.

Abu Al Afwal is the brainchild of Hassan Hamed and mirrors his father's original establishment in Sudan. The Abu Dhabi chapter of his story began in 2002 when Mr Hamed, 30 years old at the time, ventured to the UAE, after having worked alongside his father for almost half his life.

"I went to my father and told him that I would like to go to Abu Dhabi and open Abu Al Afwal here and, thankfully, I was successful," he said.

The restaurant is a cozy nook, run by Hamed and an assistant. Together, they cook 17kg of foul every day. Within their walls, about 200 plates of foul and 300 sandwiches find their way to customers every day.

He says what sets Abu Al Afwal apart is its unwavering commitment to tradition. The beans are sourced exclusively from Sudan to maintain the same authentic variety cultivated by specific farmers in a distinct terrain. Hamed's special foul mix has remained unchanged for more than two decades.

Al Arab Restaurant

Established in 1985, Al Arab Restaurant claims their fried chicken or chicken cutlets are as worthy of fame as KFC's. Although it is a bold claim, it is not entirely unfounded if going by Google rankings and reviews across Abu Dhabi. With a rating of 4.2 and more than 806 reviews, it is ranked higher than any KFC branch in the emirate.

“It is a brand,” says restaurant manager Khalandar Shaffi.

“Our customers come to Al Arab for the chicken cutlets and it is the same recipe that the original owner created. We have our own special spice mix that hasn’t changed," he says.

Loyal customers have been visiting the restaurant for years, he says.

“When we try to give customers our menu, they say there's no need."

Occupying two floors, Al Arab Restaurant is more spacious than some of the other restaurants honoured by Abu Dhabi's Department of Culture and Tourism. It offers a more welcoming dine-in environment and includes a secluded family section. Cushioned teal chairs surround polished wooden tables and the main wall features a mural of the Dubai skyline reflected in the sea.

The cuisine served is predominantly Pakistani and north Indian but some of the most popular dishes ordered at Al Arab Restaurant include the fried fish and dry chilli chicken. Their bread is made in-house in a tandoor style and the food is carefully put together before being served.

“You wont find these dishes in any other restaurant in the UAE – not just in Abu Dhabi but in the entire UAE,” says Mr Shaffi.

“Many of our customers are Emirati but we do have other nationalities as well. We are seeing the second generation today – the children of our old customers."

Abu Kaabi Kabab Restaurant & Grills

As a child, Michael Ohan, 43, would play with his siblings at his father's restaurant. They would chase each other, running between the tables as their father prepared meat to grill.

The family lived upstairs, so most meal times were spent in the restaurant.

“I grew up watching my parents cook at the restaurant. My father would be at the grill and my mother would be helping him,” Mr Ohan says.

An established chef in Lebanon, his father moved to Abu Dhabi in the 1970s after he was offered an opportunity to open his own restaurant in the new capital of the UAE. When the agreement fell through, he decided to go it alone and opened Abu Kaabi Kabab Restaurant & Grills in 1975. He died in 2006 and, today, his son runs the restaurant in the same way he did – preparing the meat himself before opening.

Most early residents of Khalidiyah will have memories of having eaten at Abu Kaabi. Many remember the original location, where barbecue smoke would waft through the neighbourhood and dozens of people would line up for a plate of mixed grill.

“Many of our customers are Emirati and second generation – their fathers used to eat here and now they come with their friends,” says Mr Ohan.

The restaurant has a low ceiling and only a few tables for dining in but that does not deter its loyal customers, who have come to know each other by name.

“When customers come to Abu Kaabi, they know they will see someone they know,” says Mr Ohan.

“The customers are family and Abu Dhabi is home. I was born in Abu Dhabi and grew up seeing these customers.

“We were one of the best restaurants and [aim to] remain one of the best.”

Al Sultan Restaurant & Grill

Located beside some of Abu Dhabi's most popular restaurants, on what is commonly known as Defence Street, Al Sultan Restaurant & Grill has no problem holding its own.

Behind the faded red doors is a modest seating area of about a dozen tables. A window through to the kitchen reveals a scene of organised chaos as meat is fanned and grilled while dollops of hummus are spread across plates. Behind the cashier, a neon sign lists the restaurant's simple dishes.

The restaurant was opened in 1975 by Lebanese resident Ali Osman. As the business began to grow, so did his family and, in 1993, his wife Fatma Ahmed and newborn son came to live with him in Abu Dhabi.

“I hadn’t turned 30 yet and, honestly, I didn’t like meat but when I tried the meat my husband cooked, it is what made me reach 130kg," Ms Ahmed, 55, tells The National.

"When I eat the arayes [a grilled, spiced meat sandwich] I eat three and four at a time without noticing. We have the freshest meat," says the mother of three.

Over the years, the family opened three more branches, in Mussaffah, Baniyas and Dubai.

When Mr Osman died a few years ago, his son, Houssien, took over the business.

“My father had the mentality where you have to teach your son your profession and so, during every holiday and during all my spare time, I was at the restaurant," says Houssien, 31.

His early tasks were chopping vegetables and kneading dough for bread.

"Working in the restaurant from a young age helped build our community since many of the staff saw me grow up and helped raise me.”

The key to the restaurant's longevity, says Houssein, is consistently serving the same food at the same quality. Ms Ahmed adds that their food appeals to people from all levels of society.

“This is a restaurant were both the rich and poor eat,” she says.

For Houssien, Abu Dhabi has been at the heart of his successful and happy life.

“It is a blessing being here. When you work hard in Abu Dhabi, you succeed and because of Abu Dhabi and my mother’s prayers, I managed to get married and have children, who I can put through school."

Houssien hopes he can continue his father's legacy and honour the city he loves by making food people can enjoy.

“My father’s main advice was to make sure that each and every customer leaves satisfied,” he says.