Painting the town red: Inside the UAE’s thriving Chinese community

Hair stylist finds unexpected new life in Abu Dhabi

For Yang Jun Mei, 51, moving to the UAE was never really part of the plan.

While working in her salon in east coast metropolis Shanghai, she had a Chinese customer come in one day who worked in Dubai. She complimented Yang’s skills and suggested she take her services outside of China – perhaps to the UAE – something that hadn’t crossed the stylist’s mind before.

She told Yang she could try to help her find a job in the emirate if she wanted. And while the decision was not a light one to make, Yang said it didn’t take her very long to decide on what to do.

“I wasn’t scared, I was excited,” she says. “It only took one week for me to decide and after one month, I arrived.”

She took the plunge and moved to the Dubai in 2009, at first working in a Chinese salon. The search for a quieter life led her to Abu Dhabi, where she decided to start her own salon instead. The capital has been her home ever since.

“Dubai has so many people, so many businesses, they are growing,” she says. “But I like Abu Dhabi, it’s much quieter, you can relax and you can balance everything. It’s nice.”

Located in downtown Abu Dhabi, Yang Style Ladies Salon can be found in an older building in the bustling Khalidiya district. Opened in 2012, the salon has since found success, particularly with Filipino clients. In January, Yang opened a second salon in a similar building on Hamdan Street.

Originally from Nanjing, in eastern China, Yang has warmly embraced life in the UAE. Last year, she brought over her daughter, Fan, who studied in Australia. After Fan finished her studies, Yang decided it would be better for her daughter to be with her in the UAE. She says safety in Abu Dhabi – which was named the safest city in the world for the 8th straight year – played a big role.

While her daughter sometimes works at the Khalidiya branch and Yang can be found in the Hamdan one, she ensures that during the holidays, everyone is together.

For Chinese New Year, Yang takes her staff to get hot pot to celebrate the occasion. They also sometimes all don traditional Chinese dress and take photos together.

As she grows her business, Yang has also seen how the UAE has embraced the Chinese community, with more shops catering to residents, including WeMart – a large supermarket that carries often difficult-to-find items from East Asia.

The Lunar New Year is also popular, with many places hosting special events and restaurants creating special menus. Yang says it’s easy to spot when Chinese New Year is around the corner because of all this.

While Yang jokes she’s a “boring” person, who doesn’t go out much, she has found a place to call home in the UAE.

“This is my second country,” she says. “I love both but here is comfortable. People here are big-hearted.

“If possible, I will stay here as long as I can”

Restaurant owner builds community through food

Red Chinese lanterns hang outside of Zhang Dan’s restaurant near Electra Street, in Abu Dhabi.

There are only seven tables inside, and Dragon Bao Bao is almost always packed, with customers sometimes needing to wait outside before getting a seat. Diners usually consist of a mix of tourists and residents, who come for a taste of traditional Chinese food.

The menu includes dishes such as hand-pulled noodles, Jianghu grilled fish and steamed custard buns. 

Zhang opened the restaurant in 2017, after realising something was missing in the capital.

“At the time, there was no Chinese restaurant in Abu Dhabi,” she says. “Every time, if I wanted to eat traditional Chinese food, I’d have to go to Dubai. I’d have to travel so long.”

Zhang is from Kaifeng, south of the Yellow River, in the central province on Henan. She met her husband, Yu, in China, but they moved to Abu Dhabi together in 2002.

She admits she was a little nervous in the beginning, but felt better after arriving. Zhang began working in sales then opened a hair salon. When she noticed a gap in the market for traditional Chinese food, she sold the salon and opened Dragon Bao Bao. Even before she found success with the restaurant, she immediately took a liking to the country.

“People are friendly, and the environment is good,” she says. “Also, I have lots of friends here.”

Zhang can be found at the restaurant every day at different times. She says she needs to be there to make sure everything is up to her standards.

In the time since the couple have been in the country, they’ve welcomed a daughter, who was born in 2016. Zhang says the strong education system in Abu Dhabi as another reason she and her husband have chosen to stay.

While running a restaurant can be tough, she also tries to find balance in her life. When not working, Zhang brings her daughter to explore parts of Abu Dhabi, such as the beach or the park.

For Chinese New Year, she doesn’t have any specific plans because of her schedule. However, since Dragon Bao Bao attracts a lot of Chinese residents and tourists, she says she is celebrating with them in a way.

“So many people invite us to events, but I think I have no time to celebrate,” she says. “But at the same we can celebrate. We are also together with so many people we meet and talk with.”  

She believes the UAE will continue to attract Chinese citizens because of the strong diplomatic ties between the two nations.

“I think Abu Dhabi is more convenient for life for us because there are more Chinese people coming here,” she says. “I think in the future, more will come because of the economic ties between the government here and the government in China.” 

As for her future plans, Zhang hopes to be able to build up Dragon Bao Bao – whether that means opening a second branch or expanding capacity at the already popular location. After more than two decades, she remains fond of the capital.

“I want to stay here more. I will look to expand my restaurant,” she says. “Abu Dhabi is suitable for my life.”

Long-time resident and business owner hopes to retire in Dubai

When Qing Chen Ji left her home country of China for Oman in 1994, it wasn’t the done thing. But Qing, then 26, was undeterred.

Encouraged by her mother, she left the industrial city of Taiyuan in China’s northern Shanxi province to work as a nurse in a Chinese traditional medicine centre in Oman.

Her knowledge of English made her a valuable asset as she could translate the medical advice of Chinese doctors and prescriptions.

When the company expanded into Dubai in 1999, Qing was asked to be part of the new venture.

“I came to the UAE on January 9, 1999 – I still remember the date,” the 55-year-old entrepreneur says.

“I love China, but for me, here is more easy, more suitable for me to develop myself.”

Even before moving to Dubai, Qing had plans to open her own business. In her spare time, she would visit souqs in Salalah to identify gaps in the market.

“When you are investing, you should first understand the demand. You must understand the local market,” she says.

She did the same in Dubai and initially began selling products – including clocks, watches, soft toys, clothes, bags and shoes – from China.

Qing soon realised there was growth potential in selling children’s shoes.

“My idea was – we will take care of your children’s feet from birth to 18 years,” she says.

“I checked in all markets and there were no children’s shoes, they were mainly only for adults.

“When I saw there was a big shortage, I decided to open Lucky Shoes.”

She invested all her savings, $4,000, and borrowed from friends to start the China Lucky Shoes wholesale venture in 2003 in Dubai’s Murshid bazaar area.

From one container a year, the company now imports more than 80 containers of children’s shoes from China into Dubai.

The business has expanded to four retail shops across three emirates, stocking more than 8,000 styles and supplying other shops across the country. Qing’s next goal is to expand into the Saudi market.

Once she found her feet, Qing’s husband and children followed her to the UAE and now also work with her.

Qing’s elder son handles online sales, while her daughter is still in school.

She says none of this would have been possible without the support of her mother, who took care of her children in China in the early years and encouraged her to work overseas.

“It didn’t feel good to leave my son when he was one year old, but my mother said, ‘Don’t miss your chance.’

“Later, when I decided to change my job, my mother supported me, she said, ‘Why have the same job until you grow old?’”

The ease of doing business in Dubai is a major advantage and Qing is grateful for the encouragement given to small and medium business owners.

“I’m relaxed because Dubai is flexible and the environment supports us,” she says.

Today, Qing and her family live in a villa they own in Dubai’s popular Springs community and hope to retire in the UAE.

“I came here with little money, then I opened a shop and have a house,” she says.

“There is safety here and happiness.”

Her network of friends and family has grown to the extent that she does not remember the last time she returned to China to celebrate Chinese New Year – a time when expatriates often travel home.

“My family is here and my friends are here now.”

Chinese expatriates usually typically watch television programmes featuring their favourite stars on New Year’s Eve and will spend time at home on February 10, New Year’s Day.

The following day is set aside to meet friends and family and share the joy about the coming year.

“People in UAE didn’t know Chinese New Year 25 years ago,” Qing says.

“Now the government gives support and respect for Chinese celebrations. We are happy because we can celebrate.

“I always say this is the best country,” she says of the UAE.

“If you follow the law and work hard, you will do well. You can have your dream.”