Luxury magazine: September 2022
Fashion's new wave; Africa's design legacy; and Palestine's last keffiyeh factory


'New ideas can be invigorating'
Deconstructed denim. Dazzlingly inventive dresses. Graphic 3D elements. And couture-worthy gowns.
These are some of the things that Luxury’s deputy editor, Sarah Maisey, discovered when she went off in search of the UAE’s next wave of design talent.
She rifled through creations by recent graduates from some of the UAE’s biggest design schools and identified a handful of the country’s most promising young creatives. Pieces by these exciting new designers are presented in a bold shoot that complements the inventiveness of the clothing on show.
There is something invigorating about being confronted with new ideas. This is the crux of a new exhibition at London’s V&A museum, which places a much-needed spotlight on contemporary African creatives. While fashion designers in the West, from Yves Saint Laurent to John Galliano, have often looked to Africa for inspiration and have been lauded for their efforts, not enough attention has been paid to what is being produced within Africa itself.
The new V&A exhibition is the first to chart the sartorial history of the continent, using designs by Thebe Magugu, Duro Olowu, Kenneth Ize, Imane Ayissi and others to tell a story of “agency, abundance and unbounded creativity”, Christine Checinska, the V&A’s inaugural curator of African and African diaspora fashion, tells us.
The exhibition highlights how fashion has been instrumental as an expression of identity and liberation on the African continent. And it is a poignant reminder that, sometimes, clothes are not just clothes.
Nowhere is this point more pertinent than in the atmospheric environs of the Hirbawi factory in Palestine’s West Bank. As the last remaining Palestinian maker of traditional keffiyeh scarves, the family-run factory is keeping a vital piece of the country’s heritage alive.
When Hirbawi opened in the 1960s, it was weaving 1,000 scarves a day. Today, half of the factory’s hulking Suzuki looms lie idle and output has fallen dramatically as the market has been flooded with cheap copies of the keffiyeh. When Sarah Maisey visited the site, she was greeted by Abed Hirbawi, son of founder Yasser, who was delighted to have an unannounced visitor.
This month, we were also invited into the much-anticipated Aman New York, which has opened in the city’s historic Crown Building. The property artfully reconfigures the hotel brand’s Asian-inspired, resort-style aesthetic for an urban setting, and melds the old and the new in intriguing ways.
Hirbawi is attempting a similar undertaking with new versions of its multicoloured keffiyehs. And these new ideas are, indeed, invigorating.
Selina Denman, editor
'Unapologetic fabulousness'

Wes Gordon, the man responsible for reinventing Carolina Herrera, talks to Sarah Maisey about high-octane glamour, the label’s celebratory resort collection and his formidable predecessor
“Everyone has overdosed on stuff,” says Wes Gordon. “You don’t want more stuff; you want good things, things you love, things that are emotional. I try to make sure that everything we do is extra vivacious and exuberant – everything needs to be fabulous.”
As Carolina Herrera’s creative director since 2018, Gordon is used to creating lavish, exuberant collections, and his take on bold patterning and bright colour is widely credited for reinvigorating the house for a new audience.
For his resort 2023 collection, which arrives in stores in November, he has conjured up chic clothing that leans into couture techniques – with a twist. “Something I have really been working on since I have been at Carolina Herrera is taking the very iconic codes of Herrera evening and cocktail – the glamour and the volume – and translating them into a compelling daywear collection that feels very much at one with the house and is just as exciting.”

Al look from Gordon's resort 2023 collection. Photos: Carolina Herrera
Al look from Gordon's resort 2023 collection. Photos: Carolina Herrera
This unfurls in oversized floral prints, eye-popping colours, animalia, drapery and skilful tailoring, now rendered largely in cotton. The collection’s opening look, a glamorous off-the-shoulder dress with dramatic sleeves and a full skirt, is, for example, crafted from cherry-print cotton faille.
Meanwhile, classic blue pinstripe cotton shirting, with all its masculine overtones, is reworked into a ruched, fitted, 1950s-style sweetheart dress, with a halterneck and flared skirt. “I like that this is a humble fabric, classic men’s shirting, but done in a beautiful, feminine way.”
While the glamour is vintage Herrera, the joyful patterning is very much Gordon’s own and is, in part, his response to the restrictions of the pandemic and a collective relief that the darkest days seem to be over.
“For this season, there was such a celebratory feel. Birthday parties have become three-day affairs and weddings that were postponed for two years are now happening with double the energy. There is so much pent-up joy, so the resort collection is really about a Riviera getaway, and all the things that entails. The glamour, sensuality, the journey, the sunshine.”

Drapery and skilful tailoring feature heavily in the new collection
Drapery and skilful tailoring feature heavily in the new collection
Aged 35, Gordon’s rise has been rapid. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2009, and following brief stints at Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta, Gordon ran his eponymous label in New York for eight years, before being hand-picked to head Herrera.
Describing it as a “pinch myself moment”, he describes how, when Carolina Herrera, the designer, decided to step down from her eponymous label at the age of 79, he was approached by brand president Emily Rubinfeld as a potential successor. While familiar with the house, he didn’t know its founder, who he respectfully refers to as Mrs Herrera.
“I had met her once or twice, like a million people, at a party where you say hi and are kind of star-struck, but nothing beyond that,” he recalls. With a clear overlap between their aesthetics, Gordon was eventually summoned to meet the designer in her office. “I found out on Sunday night, actually, a text asking if I could meet her first thing on Monday morning. It would have been nice to buy a new outfit for it and maybe get a haircut,” he quips.
“She is extraordinary. There are very few people whose presence in real life is as big as how you imagine it to be, but she is one of those.”

A dress crafted from cherry-print cotton faille
A dress crafted from cherry-print cotton faille
Despite being “very nervous”, Gordon says the pair instantly hit it off. “We spent about three minutes talking about work, and the remainder of the hour talking about life, favourite restaurants in New York, books we were reading, our dogs, and I think that told her more about me than any portfolio.
“She is so romantic in her belief that fashion is so much more than a dress. The quest for beauty and the ability to create beauty is such a noble thing. It’s those little details that have always been so important to her, and it’s a belief and a love that I share as well, and that was our common ground.”
Unusually for a handover, Gordon worked alongside Herrera for months, as she introduced him to every aspect of the house she built. “I think what made it such a smooth transition was Mrs Herrera herself and that opportunity to spend that year with her, introducing me to the pattern-makers, and being in fittings together.”
Since it was founded in 1981, the label has always taken its cues from couture and has its own in-house atelier, one of the few American brands still able to make such a claim. It is this access and expertise that has shaped the resort 2023 collection. “I am very lucky to work with our factory and, more importantly, our atelier,” says Gordon. “We have a full atelier, which very few American brands continue to do, and that’s why you see pieces like this.

The resort collection captures the glamour and sensuality of a Riviera getaway
The resort collection captures the glamour and sensuality of a Riviera getaway
“They’ve been made by pattern cutters and seamstresses who have spent decades draping precious silks and embroideries and are now taking that expertise and applying it to cotton, denim and gabardine, and creating something really magical for a woman in 2022.”
An understated floor-length shirt dress, for example, is elegantly darted into the waist and has bishop sleeves, while a bustier top has a matching cape that can be worn either as a dramatic hood or pushed back off the shoulders as a stole. Elsewhere, a cherry-print fitted dress is cut to spill off one shoulder.
Gordon utilises the atelier to create evening looks, such as a pink floor-length gown entirely covered in embroidered flowers that he wanted to look “as if you are looking down onto the top of a bouquet of pink carnations”. There is a sheath dress covered in sequin payettes, oversewn with chunky crystals, and a strapless jumpsuit covered in metres of gathered taffeta that releases into a train at the back.
Elsewhere, there is a dramatic cropped puffed dress with a back that Gordon calls a “brush stroke of perfect red faille”, while a 1980s drop-waist cocktail dress in pink and red not only captures his favourite colour combination, but also the spirit of the Herrera woman. “She is unforgettable. I always say the Herrera woman is the one on the sidewalk in hot pink, red or yellow, when everyone else is wearing beige.”
One key element of Gordon’s work is that, while steeped in glamour, it is never fussy and, as such, feels effortless. Case in point, a floor-length gold-knit dress that is chic enough for the evening, yet soft enough to be rolled up into a carry-on bag. “It’s that pragmatism, that zip-and-go approach, that almost sportswear sensibility of great American fashion that is so fabulous,” Gordon says.
He has created other resort pieces that are transformable, such as a mini skirt with a removable tulle train, and a delicate chiffon gown in a poppy print, with a detachable cape, that Gordon dubs a “perfect Dubai dress”.

A pink floor-length gown is entirely covered in embroidered flowers
A pink floor-length gown is entirely covered in embroidered flowers
Of course, one of the label’s enduring silhouettes will always be Herrera’s own signature – a crisp shirt worn with a full, ball skirt. Instead of trying to alter it, Gordon embraces it, offering new iterations each season. For resort, it arrives twice: as a midi-length leopard-print skirt, worn with an oversized pinstripe shirt; and as a floor-length skirt with a jersey top in a matching blue poppy print, albeit in a different scale. This is a ritual he has been practising since he first joined the house.

Carolina Herrera stepped away from her eponymous label at the age of 79. Photo: Reuters
Carolina Herrera stepped away from her eponymous label at the age of 79. Photo: Reuters
“When Mrs Herrera had the show that marked the transition from her to me, I surprised her at the end with a parade of all the models wearing ball skirts and white cotton shirts, each a different colour, an homage to her most signature look. Since then, I always make sure to have a new update,” he says.
Even though Herrera is no longer part of the company, the pair remain in regular contact. One topic, however, remains off limits. “We don’t talk about the collection. The first time she will see the collection is at the show. So, that’s a very scary thing, but also it has given me the space to find my own voice at Herrera. Every day I realise how much courage and trust that took on her part.”
Describing it as an “evolution rather than a revolution”, the fact that Gordon’s vision is so aligned with the founder’s is a boon to his tenure. “I feel very lucky to be at a house where my aesthetics, gut instincts, taste and preferences are harmonious with the brand’s DNA,” he says.
Of course, when it comes to knowing his client, Gordon has a little help. “I am actually sitting in a room with the Warhol [painting] of Mrs Herrera, and there she is with the bold jewellery, the technicolour lips, the eye liner. And that’s our woman. That’s who we are as a house, just unapologetic fabulousness and glamour. It’s about being the most empowered and beautiful version of yourself – and owning it.”
The trend: All hail the new trench coat
Givenchy

The winter staple has been redesigned as a flowing piece of outerwear that works over masculine trousers as well as fitted, feminine silhouettes.
Junya Watanabe

Recycled from discarded jackets that have been patchworked into an oversized coat, this creation is at once original and practical.
Alexander McQueen

At Alexander McQueen, a deconstructed trench is cut from repurposed polyfaille, with an asymmetric hemline.
Stella McCartney

With its relaxed double-breasted trench, Stella McCartney offers a stylish cruelty-free faux-leather coat made from polyester and viscose.
A new narrative

Focusing on ‘authentic stories, not the imagined utopias’, an expansive exhibition at London’s V&A is shining a much-needed spotlight on Africa’s abundant fashion talent, writes Francesca Fearon
Fashion designers in the West have frequently looked to Africa for inspiration – Yves Saint Laurent was influenced by Morocco, Virgil Abloh drew on his Ghanaian heritage for Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2021 menswear show and John Galliano created a collection inspired by ancient Egypt for Christian Dior in 2004.
However, until recently, with the emergence of designers such as Thebe Magugu, the first African designer to win the prestigious LVMH Prize, Duro Olowu, Kenneth Ize and Imane Ayissi, little has been said and written about the history of contemporary fashion in Africa.
This situation is being corrected by a joyful, uplifting exhibition, Africa Fashion, on at the V&A museum in London until April 16. It is the first to explore the sartorial history of the continent, starting with the 1950s and 1960s when African nations began breaking away from the colonial powers that ruled over them.

The Trench by Maison ArtC, Morocco, 2021. Photo: M.A.Roock
The Trench by Maison ArtC, Morocco, 2021. Photo: M.A.Roock
The exhibition successfully knits together contemporary styling with this era of liberation and ideas around expression of identity, potently symbolised by Africa’s use of fashion and, in particular, textiles. In 1957, the revolutionary first prime minister of Ghana, Kwame Nkrumah, made sure he donned the traditional handwoven kente cloth, which was historically worn by Ashanti royalty, for his state photographs.
“The story we are telling is one of agency, abundance and unbounded creativity,” says Christine Checinska, the V&A’s inaugural curator of African and African diaspora fashion. “African fashions are undefinable. But fashion is seen in part as a catalyst with which to share the richness and diversity of Africa’s myriad histories and cultures. We hope to give our audiences a glimpse of this, alongside a taste of the glamour and the politics shaping both periods – the historical and the contemporary.”
Checinska and project curator Elisabeth Murray see the exhibition as a timely celebration of the vitality and innovation of a selection of fashion creatives from the postcolonial years through to current times. Drawing help from Lagos and Accra fashion weeks, as well as industry specialists, the curators held online workshops with designers (the exhibition was curated during the pandemic).

A look from the Alchemy collection by Thebe Magugu. Photo: Tatenda Chidora
A look from the Alchemy collection by Thebe Magugu. Photo: Tatenda Chidora
They narrowed down the different themes of the exhibition to include Politics and Poetics of Cloth, Artisanal (“For some designers, the material techniques are their designs’s starting point,” says Murray), Mixology, Afrotopia and so forth, with each designer offering contributions that they felt best defined their aesthetic.
“Afrotopia is perhaps the most cutting-edge section,” says Checinska. “Here you’ll find work by designers such as Selly Raby Kane, Amine Bendriouich and Nao Serati, who are not afraid of addressing today’s pressing issues.”
The exhibition celebrates pioneering designers such as Chris Seydou, who worked with Saint Laurent and Paco Rabanne in the 1970s and 1980s before returning to Mali in 1990, and Nigeria’s Alphadi, who founded the International Festival of African Fashion in 1998, bringing African creatives together with Kenzo and Jean Paul Gaultier.

A look from the Chasing Evil collection by Kenyan designer IAMISIGO, for autumn/winter 2020. Photo: Maganga Mwagogo
A look from the Chasing Evil collection by Kenyan designer IAMISIGO, for autumn/winter 2020. Photo: Maganga Mwagogo
Highlights of the exhibition include garments by Iamisigo from Kenya, South Africa’s Magugu, couturier Ayissi, and a striking design from Morocco’s Maison ARTC that is a contemporary take on the fully enveloping burqa – sand-coloured and covered with talismanic hands to ward off the evil eye.
Designer Artsi Ifrach, who comes from a traditional Moroccan background, explains how his heritage and traditions have influenced his creativity. “My aesthetic is eclectic and culturally inspired,” he says. “Using vintage fabrics that I collect from around the world, I tell my story with garments and photography.” Arabic embroidery is also integral to his work.
African fashion, he says, “has a strong and important role in the international market”. Slowly, recognition of Africa’s talents is bringing Ize, Magugu, Ayissi and others to Parisian catwalks to display the richness and diversity of the continent.
“I feel like there are so many facets of what we’ve been through as a continent, that people don’t actually understand,” says Magugu, whose acclaim has spread further with the recent launch of a sportswear collection with adidas. “Now, more than ever, African designers are taking charge of their own narrative and telling people authentic stories, not the imagined utopias,” he says.

A design by Chris Seydou. Photo: Nabil Zorkot
A design by Chris Seydou. Photo: Nabil Zorkot
Ayissi, who was born in Cameroon, is now part of the official haute couture schedule. His colourful, elegant clothes are a blend, he says, of Parisian allure and African culture. “What I am trying to show is that there is no reason why what comes from the African continent should always be considered as ‘apart’, not quite on the same level as what comes from the rest of the world, especially when it comes to luxury,” he says.
He joined the haute couture schedule in January 2020, having previously shown off-schedule. His background as a model for luxury houses such as Dior, Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino gave him valuable insight into how the system operates.
“It helped me a lot,” he says. “The fashion industry, the fashion system, the organisation of fashion weeks, in Paris and the western world, are very different from what happens on the African continent. Without knowing how it works, the key players and also the requirements of the power players of this industry, it is very difficult to make a place for yourself.”

Kofi Ansah's Indigo Couture from 1997. Photo: Eric Don-Arthur
Kofi Ansah's Indigo Couture from 1997. Photo: Eric Don-Arthur
He was chosen to be a part of the official couture calendar after his third application, but he admits he received a lot of advice from the organising body, FHCM. “They have been very supportive and very open-minded since the beginning.”
Nevertheless, while there is growing recognition from the media and fashion institutions, this has not yet led to significant investment. Recent experience, Ayissi admits, “has allowed me to see that when it comes to business, African designers are still underestimated and absolutely not considered with the same eyes and at the same level as western designers by western players of the fashion industry”.
Hopefully this V&A exhibition will act as a much-needed wake-up call.
Cronus, Antiparos, Greece
A humble lemon tree dictated the design of this distinctive property on the tiny Greek island of Antiparos
Dry, windy and set on volcanic rock, the tiny Greek island of Antiparos is not the easiest location for vegetation to thrive in. Which is why the owners of this stunning home were so eager to preserve the established lemon tree that sits at its centre.
The tree consequently gave rise to the property’s distinct curved architecture – defined by a circular roof that not only serves as a striking design feature, but also extends out to provide much-needed shade to all the outdoor areas.

The property was designed around a mature lemon tree that now sits in its centre. Photos: Greece Sotheby’s International Realty
The property was designed around a mature lemon tree that now sits in its centre. Photos: Greece Sotheby’s International Realty
The disc-shaped design maximises on views across the sea, mountains and the rest of the island. The name of the house, Cronus, is taken from Greek mythology and refers to the leader of the first generation of Titans.
Modernist lines are reinforced with the use of natural materials such as stone, bamboo and concrete, giving the structure a sleek, mid-century Scandinavian vibe. Inside, a pared-back aesthetic embraces muted earthy tones, comfortable linen sofas, and seating and shelving carved into walls.

Natural materials such as stone, bamboo and concrete give the structure a sleek, mid-century Scandinavian vibe
Natural materials such as stone, bamboo and concrete give the structure a sleek, mid-century Scandinavian vibe
A subtle interplay of textures is introduced via flatweave carpets that double as wall hangings, heavy wooden furniture and the odd statement accessory.
The home sits on a 9,500-square-metre plot, with a built-up area of 294 square metres, and is currently on the market for €7.5 million ($7.7m) via Greece Sotheby’s International Realty.
There are six bedrooms and nine bathrooms in this semi subterranean villa, with living spaces located on the upper levels. Bi-fold glass doors connect lounge areas to outdoor terraces, blurring the boundaries between inside and out, and flooding the space with natural light.

Bi-fold glass doors connect lounge areas to outdoor terraces
Bi-fold glass doors connect lounge areas to outdoor terraces
Outside, sumptuous daybeds flank an infinity pool that curves around the property and appears to extend out into the sea. A large outdoor shaded dining area looks out over postcard-worthy views, while an outdoor home cinema and a barbecue area make this the ultimate pad for parties and entertaining. The nearest beach is 1.1 kilometres away and there is a yacht marina about 5km away.
Low-key Antiparos lies at the heart of the Cyclades, a group of about 220 islands in the Aegean Sea that also includes Naxos, Syros, Ios, Mykonos, Andros, Milos and Sifnos. The closest airport is located 1.5 kilometres away in Paros.
The island is surrounded by a number of tiny uninhabited islands of significant archaeological importance, including Tsimintiri, Revmatonisi, Tourlos and Despotiko, which is home to a large sanctuary of Apollo.

One of the property's six bedrooms
One of the property's six bedrooms
Antiparos offers all the hallmarks of laid-back Greek island living, with its whitewashed houses, cobbled streets, colourful gardens, clusters of pink bougainvillaea and unspoilt beaches. Tom Hanks owns a summer home on the island, while Matthew McConaughey and Whoopi Goldberg have both been known to visit.
Chora, the main town, is brimming with enticing boutiques, galleries, exceptional restaurants and bustling cafes and bars, but has yet to be overtaken by the overtly commercialised feel of some of its neighbours.
Asking price: $7.7 million

Class of '22
In search of the next crop of UAE design talent, Luxury singled out five students from Esmod Dubai, the famed French school that has had a presence in the region since 2008, and four from Fad Dubai, a leading fashion institute in the region.
Fad’s Rakshana Krishnan, Kalistar, Tijani Adebimpe and Dhara Sheth collectively delivered some dynamic ideas. Krishnan’s sassy dresses were made from tiered lace and chequered cloth, while Sheth offered a simpler take, with a graphic 3D bodice added to an LBD. Kalistar showed a silver suit with net gaters worn under cropped, flared trousers, while Adebimpe created dazzlingly inventive gowns that presented a twisted alternative to eveningwear.
New talent from Esmod includes Janta Kumari, Taruni Kottakota, Arjun Naveen, Alaa Elghrabli and Fatima Saad, who all crafted their collections with skill and passion.
Kumari worked around the idea of a young Pakistani woman in New York, fusing hip hop with traditional embroideries to create contemporary, transformable pieces, while Kottakota embraced a Victorian Gothic aesthetic, creating looks from dried flowers and crinolines that evoked the formidable Miss Haversham from Charles Dickens’s Great Expectations.
Naveen deconstructed denim, using rust, laser etching and latex to create unique fabrics cut into curved seamed jeans and jackets, while Elghrabli, who is also a painter, created looks centered around the practical needs of artists, with pockets, flaps and surfaces to store, hold and clean brushes.
Saad, meanwhile, revealed a rare talent for couture, with cocktail looks garnished with oversized bows as trains. In a field brimming with raw talent, she displayed a skill far beyond her years, making her a name to watch.
Fashion director Sarah Maisey
Photographer Greg Adamski
Hair and make up Ania Poniatowska
Models Nyajouk and Kristine at MMG, and Mitchell
Stylist’s assistants Nihala Naval and Sneha Maria Siby Videographer Nilanjana Gupta
For behind-the-scenes footage and interviews with the designers, follow @luxuryexplained on Instagram

From left, Mitchell in an ivory silk bustier with bow and train; and tailored trousers; Kristine in a pleated mini dress with bow sleeves; and Nyajouk in a fitted cocktail dress with bow detail, all from Fatima Saad
From left, Mitchell in an ivory silk bustier with bow and train; and tailored trousers; Kristine in a pleated mini dress with bow sleeves; and Nyajouk in a fitted cocktail dress with bow detail, all from Fatima Saad

Nyajouk in a red evening dress with beading and floor-length pleated sleeves; Mitchell in a black beaded dress with a structured hip, both by Tijani Adebimpe
Nyajouk in a red evening dress with beading and floor-length pleated sleeves; Mitchell in a black beaded dress with a structured hip, both by Tijani Adebimpe

Kristine, left, in a tiered lace dress with puffed sleeves; bolero jacket (worn back to front), both from Rakshana Krishnan. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti Mitchell, right, in a mini dress with slashed net sleeves, Rakshana Krishnan. Lycra body, Elisabetta Franchi. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti
Kristine, left, in a tiered lace dress with puffed sleeves; bolero jacket (worn back to front), both from Rakshana Krishnan. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti Mitchell, right, in a mini dress with slashed net sleeves, Rakshana Krishnan. Lycra body, Elisabetta Franchi. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti

Leather and denim jacket with detachable sleeves; denim trench coat with embroidered lining; woven top; skirt; jeans; and basketball handbag, all from Janta Kumari. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti
Leather and denim jacket with detachable sleeves; denim trench coat with embroidered lining; woven top; skirt; jeans; and basketball handbag, all from Janta Kumari. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti

Distressed and laser-etched denim jacket with puffed sleeves; corset with trailing hem; and circular cut jeans, all from Arjun Naveen
Distressed and laser-etched denim jacket with puffed sleeves; corset with trailing hem; and circular cut jeans, all from Arjun Naveen

Silver jacket with bead work; kick-flare cropped trousers; and net gater, all from Kalistar
Silver jacket with bead work; kick-flare cropped trousers; and net gater, all from Kalistar

Dress with structured bodice, Dhara Sheth
Dress with structured bodice, Dhara Sheth

Unisex gilet; jacket with cold shoulder detail; and drop waist skirt, all from Alaa Elghrabli
Unisex gilet; jacket with cold shoulder detail; and drop waist skirt, all from Alaa Elghrabli
Transcending boundaries

The founders of Bahraini fashion label Noon by Noor tell Sarah Maisey how they’ve built one of the GCC’s most successful fashion brands
Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, the Bahraini duo behind Noon by Noor, always knew they wanted to create a fashion label.
The designers both hail from creative families – Shaikha Noor is the daughter of renowned Bahraini artist Sheikh Rashid bin Khalifa Al Khalifa – so it was little surprise when, after studying fashion design in America, the pair, who are close friends as well as cousins, returned to Bahrain and decided to launch their own brand.
Focusing on quietly sophisticated, pared-back dressing, Noon by Noor has always existed in the space where masculine and feminine codes intersect. Bridging the gap between menswear and womenswear, it consistently offers propositions that combine the best of both.

Noon by Noor founders Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa. Photos: Noon by Noor
Noon by Noor founders Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa. Photos: Noon by Noor
So for autumn/winter 2022, traditional men’s shirting arrives as dresses, while traditional dress fabrics are cut into shirts. A loose-fit, utilitarian sports jacket is elevated using raspberry satin, while a smartly tailored suit jacket, now carved into the waist and paired with a full circle skirt, is made in a rich jacquard. Another suit with the same cut is scattered with hand-embroidered flowers.
Masculine structures such as funnel necks appear throughout the collection, balanced with soft, flowing, full-length dresses. Assured and elegant, evening wear arrives with a twist, as a straight-cut mini dress in plissé silver lamé that hints at glamorous nights out.
The strength of the brand stems from its rigorous editing process, made possible by the strong friendship between its founders. Unafraid to push the team and each other, the pair explain how this is fundamental. “Our conversations sometimes challenge us creatively, and it helps to sometimes take a step back and look at the bigger picture,” Shaikha Haya explains.

Masculine structures such as funnel necks appear throughout the collection
Masculine structures such as funnel necks appear throughout the collection
“As the collections are built and the brand evolves, we jointly steer the ship and enjoy creative and strategic conversations with our team. These are a vital part of our creative process and start with concept, colours, fabrics and intention.
The brand’s evolution has been measured, but meaningful. With the aim of being “internationally recognised” by 2011, the pair decided to take the label to America via a showcasing event in Los Angeles. Such was the buzz, the pair were soon invited to join the New York Fashion Week schedule, the first GCC brand to do so.
It debuted in New York with its spring/summer 2013 collection, and went on to show in the city for 16 seasons, before switching to London in 2021. While the shift was not easy, it felt like the time was right to move into a new arena. “New York had been amazing,” Shaikha Noor says.

Noon by Noor has always existed in the space where masculine and feminine codes intersect
Noon by Noor has always existed in the space where masculine and feminine codes intersect
“It helped us launch internationally, but it was time for us to switch our approach to more intimate and focused events in the European market and our home market, and to expand our customer base internationally.”
When the pandemic struck, the pair were able to take advantage of the pause to rethink their strategy and doubled down on their core idea of discreet luxury. “We tuned into the silence and made improvements better suited for today’s customers,” Shaikha Haya says.
This meant reducing the collection to only 21 pieces, where, propelled by an ethos of “less, but better”, all frippery was striped away, leaving a core of functional, skilfully constructed clothes that blend opulence with relaxed silhouettes.
Aware the pandemic also triggered clients to rethink what they do and do not need, the duo has also stepped up brand awareness, from their lauded debut at London Fashion Week in September last year to a link-up with the Bahraini breast cancer awareness campaign, Think Pink.

The Bahraini label unveiled its latest collection at London Fashion Week
The Bahraini label unveiled its latest collection at London Fashion Week
The brevity of the new collections allows each piece to be seen in its entirety, and they flourish under the microscope. The details in each proposition can be seen and appreciated in full.
Impeccable tailoring is mixed with couture-level detailing, a white mini dress is seemingly conjured from wisps of fabric and roomy coats bring a sense of protection and cocooning, especially when teamed with shorts in caramel faux fur.
Elsewhere, denim is introduced for the first time. “It feels right when we consider the way we have all adapted our wardrobes to working from home over the past two years. We cut trousers with the relaxed slouch of a sweat pant and jackets like cardigans,” says Shaikha Haya.

The collection offers a play of contrasts using colours, fabrics and silhouettes
The collection offers a play of contrasts using colours, fabrics and silhouettes
Using a palette of indigo, khaki and caramel, softened with colours such as lavender and rose, the collection is wonderfully understated. “We brought the collection to life with plays of materials and textures, and by creating interesting contrasts using colours, fabrics, and silhouettes – a clash of clichés,” says Shaikha Noor.
The secret to being able to weather the trials of growing a business, not to mention a global pandemic, is, the women believe, their shared history. “Having grown up together, it has made working together a lot easier,” Shaikha Noor explains. “We understand each other implicitly and feel comfortable being fully transparent with one another. That’s key to building a rock-solid partnership.”
The designers take inspiration from their customers. “The Noon by Noor woman is the centre of everything we do,” Shaikha Noor says. “She asserts herself by dressing in a way that reincarnates her individuality. However, her self-assertion is by no means an imposition on anyone. She is confident and strong, but open. She simply transcends boundaries.”
How we roe
Master caviarologist Nicolas Berhault offers an insight into one of the world’s most delectable foodstuffs. By Adriaane Pielou
Even more than oysters, Wagyu steak or desserts decorated with gold flakes, it is caviar – sturgeon roe – that for a century has been the world’s most expensive food.
But there’s surprising news about this once-rare delicacy. Caviar has plummeted in price since its peak in 2008, with ossetra dropping from about €6,000 (Dh22,500) a kilo to nearer €2,000. And there’s more of it available than ever before.
So let us find some mother-of-pearl spoons – supposedly the ideal way to eat caviar, to avoid the delicate little eggs being tainted by metal – and hear an explanation for this state of affairs from a man who probably knows more about caviar than anyone else on the planet – Nicolas Berhault, master caviarologist and director of buying and production for French gourmet foods company Petrossian.

Petrossian's Steluga Tsar Imperial caviar. Photo: Laetitia Vallee
Petrossian's Steluga Tsar Imperial caviar. Photo: Laetitia Vallee
Caviar’s most prestigious purveyor, Petrossian was set up in Paris in 1920, when two brothers escaping the Bolshevik Revolution realised they had an opportunity to introduce the traditional Russian delicacy to the world. Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian were born in Armenia and raised in Russia. They arrived in Paris with little but the clothes they stood in, their connections to caviar suppliers and their confidence in the allure of the “liquid gold” beyond Russia.
They started by giving away free spoonfuls of caviar at the Ritz hotel and went on to open a shop. Their prediction soon proved correct. These days, each December, Petrossian routinely dispatches about 10 tons of caviar from its main processing centre in Paris.
The company sells online, at the Petrossian restaurant close to the original shop, and to hotels, airlines, restaurants and gourmet food shops around the world. I meet Berhault – who has worked for the company for 20 years, since graduating – at the company’s new processing centre outside London.

The company sells its range of products online and at the Petrossian restaurant. Photo: Laetitia Vallee
The company sells its range of products online and at the Petrossian restaurant. Photo: Laetitia Vallee
Pulling on those comically unflattering blue paper shoe-protectors, a plastic apron and a blue hairnet, he leads the way into a chilled maturation laboratory to explain how, after being extracted from the female sturgeon, handful by giant handful, roe is matured into top-quality caviar. In a steady temperature of -2°C degrees, lacquer-lined 1.8kg tins of freshly harvested caviar mixed with Maldon salt are kept for up to 10 months while the contents gradually oxidise and evolve to offer the desired full-bodied flavour. Petrossian’s finest Beluga Tsar Imperial costs €294 for 30 grams. The same quantity of its sevruga costs €84.
Selecting five tins from the storage area, Berhault carefully prises off the lids and spoons out tiny samples. Of the dozen or so species of sturgeon, three have traditionally produced the best caviar: ossetra, sevruga and beluga.
The samples clearly demonstrate the differences between them: tiny pinheads of almost-black sevruga; amber beads of ossetra; glistening globules of pearly grey beluga. In appearance and, I discover, taste, the differences are unambiguous. Yet two extra samples of sevruga and ossetra also show how much caviar from the same species can differ.
“Each fish will produce caviar with a slightly different taste. As a buyer, it is my job to source the best and, as much as possible, to maintain consistency – and the endless differences help explain why caviar is so fascinating,” Berhault says.
Historically, caviar was extracted from wild sturgeon caught in the Caspian Sea. Consequently, for most of the 20th century, the caviar that top chefs put on their menus, that airlines served in first class, that hosts provided at parties and that aficionados ecstatically rolled around their tongues, was produced almost solely by the two countries bordering it – Iran and what was then the Soviet Union.

Nicolas Berhault, master caviarologist and director of buying and production for Petrossian, at the company's new London processing centre. Photo: Petrossian
Nicolas Berhault, master caviarologist and director of buying and production for Petrossian, at the company's new London processing centre. Photo: Petrossian
After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, however, criminal gangs began a ruthless plunder of the Caspian and its “liquid gold”. Sewage poured into the sea as Russia floundered and by the mid-1990s, the sea was so polluted and sturgeon so close to extinction that the UN stepped in. Introducing quotas, its Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species aimed to give the Caspian fish time to repopulate. Smuggling undermined the intended effect, however. By 2008 the situation was so bad Cites imposed a complete ban.
“In 2008, everything changed,” says Berhault. Suddenly caviar could be obtained legally only from farmed, rather than wild-caught, sturgeon. With only a few sturgeon farms in existence, mostly in Italy, France and Sacramento in the US, production was so low that prices rocketed, reflecting caviar’s rarity.
“A lot of people saw their opportunity to enter a potentially hugely lucrative business,” he says. But many fledgling farms were short-lived.
“Female sturgeon have to have reached five or six years of age – and beluga 15 or 20 years – before the best roe can be harvested. The costs of feeding them –beluga can reach 350kg – and maintaining them in fresh, cool, clean water, is high. So for the first six or so years, at least, there is no income.”
Now, however, he says enough people have gone bankrupt for surviving farms to be well run and for newcomers to start out well aware of the challenges.
Because of the necessity of rearing the sturgeon in cool water – about 22°C is ideal – it is an easier enterprise in chilly rather than tropical countries, where all the rearing has to be indoors. Nevertheless, there are now sturgeon farms in almost 50 countries around the world, from Belgium, France and Poland to Japan, Thailand and China. Although Chinese farms rear sturgeon mostly for their meat, they also produce about a third of the world’s caviar.

Caviar in the Petrossian lab. Photo: Petrossian
Caviar in the Petrossian lab. Photo: Petrossian
And where does the best caviar come from? Berhault has visited every sturgeon farm in the world, those from which he has subsequently contracted to buy caviar, as well as those he wants to monitor.
“The best, I cannot say. Petrossian buys only the best, from around 10 farms. But I can tell you the most beautiful farms are in Madagascar and Uruguay. Both are in lakes in the mountains. Very large, very well run, with the purest cool water, never rising above 22°C. The fish there can live a good fish life.”
But doesn’t he buy from Italy? Before meeting him I’d been on YouTube, watching videos of caviar production (the extraction part is not for the squeamish) and had been impressed by the claims of several Italian sturgeon farms. He laughs. “Very little. One hears some farms there say they use water fresh from the Alps. But actually I know it’s recycled from the steel industry.”
And while he misses the wild old days – placing an order in Kazahkstan and having to charter a plane to bring the crateloads back to Paris – he foresees the industry only expanding. Caviar is highly nutritious, he points out, with a high protein content, and in his opinion the more people who get to try it, the more will enjoy it and buy it.
“Even babies love caviar,” he says. “I remember my own little daughters trying a tiny spoonful for the first time. They screwed up their faces for a moment – and then immediately wanted more.”

Born of paper and passion

Fouad Naccache, left, and Hassan Malle, founders of Foux. Photo: Foux
Fouad Naccache, left, and Hassan Malle, founders of Foux. Photo: Foux
Fatima Al Mahmoud meets the bold founders of Lebanese accessories brand Foux, which was launched last year in the midst of a major economic crisis
Out of cardboard, paper, passion and glue, one of Lebanon’s most intriguing up-and-coming brands was born. “We built it from scratch,” say Fouad Naccache, 28, and Hassan Malle, 29, the creative minds behind Foux.
Founded last year, Foux made its debut with a unique line of genderless handbags designed to “elevate any look”. “We were sitting on the balcony when we grabbed some cardboard and created a prototype of what is now our bestseller,” says Naccache. “We knew when we constructed that bag exactly what our vision for the brand would be. And we went for it.”
Having worked in interior design and architecture respectively, Naccache and Malle found their calling after completing their studies in luxury brand management. “We wanted to share something of our own design with the world,” says Naccache. “Something that looks like us and reflects our identity.” The duo joined forces, quit their full-time jobs and poured their heart and soul into a small business that has since flourished.
Coming from the French term “foux”, which translates as crazy or insane, the name is fitting for a brand launched in the midst of Lebanon’s economic downfall. The outcome, say the designers, has also been “crazy”, as they never expected for their home country to be one of their biggest markets.

A handbags by Foux. Photo: Foux
A handbags by Foux. Photo: Foux
“It was so inspiring to us and it pushed us to keep going. Despite all the odds, Lebanese people did everything to support us and support our business, and we couldn’t be more grateful,” Naccache says.
Lebanon is currently facing one of the world’s worst economic crises since the 1850s, according to the World Bank. The national currency, the Lebanese pound, has lost more than 90 per cent of its value, pushing almost three-quarters of the population into poverty. The situation is exacerbated by the coronavirus pandemic, electricity cuts, supply chain shortages and a banking crisis that locked up depositor funds.
“We took a huge risk and launched our business at one of the worst times Lebanon has ever seen,” Naccache tells me. “But we followed our guts, and we are forever proud that we started from home and expanded.”
Despite the odds and challenges, Foux was able to launch six sleek bag designs over the course of a year. From clutches to belt bags and crossbody pieces, each of the models comes in a number of vibrant and eye-catching colours. The brand ships internationally, with points of sale in Dubai, Nigeria, Cairo and Doha.
With plans under way to establish a global presence, the creatives behind the brand have their eyes set on an even bigger picture: giving back to the planet. Foux takes pride in being vegan, sustainable and ethical, three values the founders take to heart. “We all have an individual responsibility to protect our planet,” says Naccache. “It is everyone’s duty to help in any way to give back to the Earth.”

Foux offers a range of designs in vibrant colours
Foux offers a range of designs in vibrant colours
From manufacturing to packaging, Foux products are eco-friendly, causing minimal harm to the planet or its inhabitants. “Fast fashion may be the trend now, but slow fashion will soon take over, as it should,” Naccache says.
While Foux’s values will remain unchanged, its trajectory is versatile. “As we speak, we’re currently experimenting and exploring to see where we can take our brand in its second year,” says Naccache.
While bags will continue to be a Foux staple, the founders are keen to introduce other items to the roster that align with their identity. In the meantime, they are relishing a reality that once seemed unattainable. “It all happened very fast,” says Naccache. “Never would we have thought that one year could change our lives for ever.”
“Follow your gut,” he adds. “If you have a vision, wherever you are in the world and whoever you are, just follow your heart and something will happen. Something will turn up.”
The threads of history
Not so long ago, the Hirbawi factory in the West Bank was producing thousands of traditional keffiyehs a day. Now, most of its hulking decades-old looms lie idle. Sarah Maisey pays a visit and learns of the efforts being made to save this little piece of Palestinian heritage
On a quiet street in Hebron, in the West Bank, down a short driveway and through an unremarkable doorway, I discover the last outpost of an invaluable piece of Palestinian culture.
I am at the Hirbawi factory, the last remaining maker of the authentic Palestinian keffiyeh, founded in 1961 by Yasser Hirbawi. Today I am met by Abed, one of his three sons. Delighted, if a little surprised, to have an unannounced visitor, he shows me to the factory floor, past several shelves piled high with scarves. “Welcome, welcome,” he says as he waves me inside.

The black-and-white version of the keffiyeh is the most recognisable. Photo: Hirbawi USA
The black-and-white version of the keffiyeh is the most recognisable. Photo: Hirbawi USA
Amid a deafening clatter – the looms have many, many moving parts – the smell of grease and air filled with cotton fluff, I am greeted with an amazing sight. Huge machines are slowly creating Palestinian keffiyehs, one row at a time. A self-confessed textile nerd, I find the experience almost overwhelming. Shelves are covered in industrial-sized spools of thread and a wall is covered in neatly displayed rectangular samples – inexplicably lit in neon purple. A poster of Yasser Arafat is cello-taped to one of the pillars.
As I gingerly move between the machines, the men tending them look up and smile, unbothered by this random tourist getting in the way. I am the only one here. In the office, an Austrian women is placing an order, but no one else seems eager to experience this little piece of history.
It’s a sign of the fact that, while known as the unofficial Palestinian flag, and despite the best efforts of a dedicated few, the future of the keffiyeh is by no means certain.
The distinctive square headscarf, with its striking fishing net pattern, is a cornerstone of Arab culture, from Turkey and Yemen to Saudi Arabia. When the Hirbawi factory opened in the West Bank’s largest city, it was one of 30 such factories producing the distinctive keffiyeh.

It takes more than a year to master one of the hulking looms in the Hirbawi factory. Photo: Sarah Maisey
It takes more than a year to master one of the hulking looms in the Hirbawi factory. Photo: Sarah Maisey
Scarves, thobes and even jackets were shipped across Palestine and the wider region, with the Hirbawi factory alone weaving 1,000 scarves a day – its machines running for 18 hours a day just to keep up with the demand.
By 2008, however, Hirbawi was the only site still in business, and production had dropped to only 100 scarves a day. So, what happened?
While today indelibly linked to Palestinian nationalism, the keffiyeh can be traced back to Mesopotamia circa 3100 BC, when it was worn by Sumerian men to denote high status and priesthood. Over the centuries, it has always been the preserve of men, but during Ottoman rule (1517-1917) its use within Palestine became the preserve of farmers.
During the 1936 Arab Revolt against British rule, the keffiyeh began its shift towards something more rebellious when it was used by protesters to cover their faces. When the British outlawed it to try to halt the protests, Palestinians reacted by taking up the scarf en masse – including women – making protesters impossible to single out.
During the Nakba of 1948 – the forced removal of Palestinians from their homes after the formation of Israel – the scarf’s air of dissent grew, so when Mohammed Abdel Rahman Abdel Raouf al-Qudwa al-Husseini – better known as Yasser Arafat – assumed leadership of the Palestine Liberation Organisation in the late 1960s, he made the keffiyeh his signature, folded and draped into the shape of Palestine.
Over the next three decades, the scarf became increasingly politicised within Palestine, as the Fatah party claimed the black-and-white version as its own, and Hamas adopted the red and white. Overseas, however, these distinctions were less meaningful, and with its frisson of activism, the scarf was increasingly adopted by those keen to show off political credentials and sympathies.
By the mid-1990s, the popularity of the keffiyeh was becoming increasingly widespread, and thanks to the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, it became a victim of its own success. Aimed at opening up trade barriers around the world, the Gatt agreement allowed for foreign access to markets. Asian factories sensed an opportunity and began producing their own keffiyehs at a lower price and in greater quantities. Flooding the market, these were snapped up by those who either didn’t know, or care, that they were buying a cheap facsimile.

An authentic keffiyeh produced in the Hirbawi factory in the West Bank. Photo: Hirbawi USA
An authentic keffiyeh produced in the Hirbawi factory in the West Bank. Photo: Hirbawi USA
In the 2000s, the keffiyeh was co-opted as a fashion accessory. For autumn/winter 2007, detached from all meaning and heritage, Balenciaga released its own chequered scarf, priced at $3,000. The high street quickly followed suit, with American Apparel and Topshop releasing their own black-and-white versions.
Urban Outfitters found itself at the receiving end of a significant backlash, after it named its version “anti-war woven scarves”. Forced to pull it from shelves, the company also had to issue an apology. “We apologise if we offended anyone, this was by no means our intention,” it said.
While all the ensuing controversy helped to increase the popularity of the scarf, it sounded the death knell for the factories in Hebron, which couldn’t compete with a flood of cheap copies. Having saturated the market, the foreign copies even reached Jerusalem, only 28 kilometres away.
Today, stepping inside the Hirbawi factory is like stepping back in time. It is the only factory of its kind still in operation, with hulking Suzuki looms, half a century old, clattering away noisily.

The machine weaves scarves as one continuous length, which must be cut to size by hand
The machine weaves scarves as one continuous length, which must be cut to size by hand
Notoriously complicated to operate – it takes more than a year to master one – each machine weaves scarves as one continuous length, which must be cut to size by hand. Not all the machines here are running, however. Of the original 15, half now stand idle, shut down as sales slowed two decades ago and never recovered.
Yet, despite this, there is room for hope. In 2008, Hirbawi was forced to let go of all but one member of staff as sales plummeted. Now, a handful of men move between the machines, carefully tending the emerging cloth. While still down on the numbers of its heyday, it bodes well that Hirbawi is starting to look to the future again. Salvation, it seems, is coming from outside Palestine, specifically from Germany and the US.
Hearing of the plight of the factory, Palestinians living in Germany set up a website to promote and sell keffiyehs and olive oil, to offer support and a financial lifeline.

Hirbawi scarves are available in a growing array of colours
Hirbawi scarves are available in a growing array of colours
Called Paliroots.com, it joined forces with the factory, becoming its European representative, bringing it into the digital age in the process. In 2015, the site was seen by Azar Aghayev, who was spurred into launching a US version, called Hirbawi USA.
Seeing the German site was a lighbulb moment for him, Aghayev explains. “They were selling keffiyehs and some other Palestinian products like olive oil and spices. We got in touch and told them that we would like to sell the keffiyehs from within the US.”
Today, as the American affiliate of Hirbawi, Aghayev sells 36 colour variations on his site. This is a far cry from the early days, when he ordered only four colours. “We shipped our first box of keffiyehs from Palestine to the States. Only black and white, red and white, pure black and Gaza.”
With many scarves named after Palestinian cites, the Gaza design is a bright mix of orange, red and green.
Having previously visited Palestine and witnessed first-hand the situation faced by its people, Aghayev knew long-term support was desperately needed. “I wanted to help the Palestinian cause as much as I could, and this seemed like a sustainable way to do so.”
The goal, he explains, is to reclaim ownership of the keffiyeh for Hirbawi and Palestine, and to protect the future of the scarf and the factory making it.
“My aim is recognition of the brand. And creating sustained jobs and a sustainable operation back in Palestine, where stability is a little hard to come by. And raise awareness for the Palestinian cause, of course. That goes without saying.”
With the colours of the scarf now loaded with political meaning within Palestine, Hirbawi has widened its colour palette to sidestep the issue, creating many new variations.
Visitors can pick up a keffiyeh in colours such as chocolate, taupe, deep blue and even one in the green and orange of the Irish flag.
Called the Saoirse, it is, the factory declares, a recognition of the similar struggles faced by Ireland and Palestine, and is dedicated to “liberty and freedom” and the “people of Ireland”.
Inevitably, as Hirbawi USA has grown, others have tried to cash in. However, Aghayev remains unfazed and committed to the long game. “Other folks rushed to sell Hirbawi keffiyehs online, unofficially. Without the knowledge of the factory and selling versions that weren’t meant to be exported,” he says. While pragmatic, he does not hide his scorn for those who peddle copies.
However, despite the help coming from Europe and America, little support is offered to the Hirbawi factory from within Palestine. The population has much bigger issues to worry about than keeping one factory going.
Case in point, the taxi driver taking me to the Hirbawi factory from Bethlehem was unmoved by its fate. More concerned that he would never be able to afford to marry, when I handed him a gift of a scarf, he looked at it – and me – quizzically.
Explaining this was for the son he would one day have, I pointed out that by the time the child arrives, the Hirbawi factory may well be a thing of the past.


Essential technology
Selina Denman rounds up some must-have gadgets, from a smart sleep assistant to a sustainable city bike
Loftie Clock
We’ve all been told we’d be better off banishing our smartphones from the bedroom, even if we do rely on them to get us up in the morning. Loftie’s clock, or “smart sleep assistant”, promises to do that and more. Its two-phase alarm mimics your body’s natural waking processes, with unalarming sounds that gently lift you out of sleep. You can customise its settings, including alarm tones and volume. The device also promises to help maximise your sleep patterns, with sleep times, music, guided meditations and bedtime stories. An adjustable night light provides a soothing glow or you can instead opt for black-out mode, if that’s what helps you doze off.
Zapp EV i300
Zapp EV is now taking orders for the i300, the world’s first electric performance city bike. Beyond being emissions free, the model’s sustainability credentials include low component numbers, low battery cell numbers and the use of eco-friendly composites. There are currently four options of the bike on offer through Zapp EV’s e-commerce platform: the i300 Carbon Launch Edition, i300 Carbon, the i300 Bio and the i300 Ocean.
Sport True earbuds
For the first time in years, Sennheiser has launched dedicated earphones for athletes and sports enthusiasts. The new Sport True Wireless earbuds offer an adaptable acoustic feature – with the open ear adapter setting, users will be able to stay aware of their surroundings, while body-born noises, such as footsteps and breathing, will be minimised; when closed, all outside sound will be blocked out. The ergonomic fit of the earbuds can also be customised, with a choice of ear adapters in three sizes, as well as four different ear fins. The buds are splash, dust and sweat-resistant.
Montblanc Summit 3
The Montblanc Summit 3 smartwatch is part of the brand’s latest collection, which consists of products that encourage and facilitate movement. This timepiece incorporates the latest Wear OS by Google, and features a selection of apps that track movement and sleeping patterns, and supply tips to help you focus. A case crafted from hand-brushed titanium is complemented by configurable watch faces that can be paired with leather or rubber straps.
Dyson V15 Detect
Dyson has launched its most powerful and intelligent vacuum cleaner to date, the cordless V15 Detect. Developed by a team of 370 engineers globally, this latest product uses a Dyson Hyperdymium motor, which generates up to 230 air watts of suction, as well as a five-stage filtration system that promises to capture 99.99 per cent of dust. It is also fitted with a technology that enables users to measure the amount of dust that has been gathered, with results displayed on an LCD screen.

Loftie clock, $149.00, www.byloftie.com
Loftie clock, $149.00, www.byloftie.com

Zapp EV i300, $911, www.zappev.com
Zapp EV i300, $911, www.zappev.com

Sport True earbuds, $136, www.sennheiser.com
Sport True earbuds, $136, www.sennheiser.com

Montblanc Summit 3, $1,290, www.montblanc.com
Montblanc Summit 3, $1,290, www.montblanc.com

Dyson V15 Detect, $789, www.dyson.ae
Dyson V15 Detect, $789, www.dyson.ae
A step ahead
Sophie Prideaux is given a rare tour of Manifattura Berluti, where, almost 130 years after its launch, the famed shoemaker continues to craft some of the world’s most coveted shoes
In 1884, a young and hungry Alessandro Berluti left Senigallia, the small Italian village where he was born and raised, for booming Paris. The city was in the midst of a creative and artistic revolution, and Alessandro, who was 19 at the time, was eager to hone his skills as a craftsman.
Over the next decade, his keen eye for aesthetic lines and impressive hardwood skills won him a legion of high-profile and celebrity clients, helping to cement his place as one of the city’s top shoemakers. By 1895, he had created his first signature bespoke shoe – the Alessandro lace-up – and upon inscribing his name into the leather, Maison Berluti was born.

Rows of lasts made from hornbeam on display in the Manifattura Berluti
Rows of lasts made from hornbeam on display in the Manifattura Berluti
Almost 130 years on, Berluti remains one of the world’s top luxury shoemakers, known for its technical virtuosity and savoir-faire. And although Maison Berluti has kept up with the times, the brand’s spirit of craftsmanship remains unchanged.
Berluti’s century-worth of expertise comes together on the outskirts of Ferrara, where Manifattura Berluti stands proud amid the Italian countryside. And the workshop, which the brand’s parent company LVMH commissioned Parisian architect Barthélémy Griño to design in 2012, is anything but industrial.
Much like the nature of the work that happens within, the structure has been designed with the utmost craftsmanship, fittingly taking the shape of a giant shoebox. Inside, interwoven beams mimicking intricate shoe-lacing let light into an open atrium. The cedar wood from which they are built has been specially selected to age in the sun, much like Berluti’s famous patinas.
Within this 8,000-square-metre shoebox, more than 250 employees initiate the meticulous process of crafting a pair of Berluti shoes, which can consist of up to 200 individual steps and, for some bespoke designs, 50 hours of labour.

The finishing touches are made to a pair of Berluti shoes
The finishing touches are made to a pair of Berluti shoes
While staff at the manifattura hail from around the world, many were born and raised in Ferrara, and come from shoemaking stock who have passed their skills down through generations. The brand works hard to engage new generations in the craft too, and here in Ferrara, there are plenty of young people busy at work.
“It takes around 400 hours to learn the craft,” plant director François Berthet tells me as we start our tour, a rare privilege as it’s not often the manifattura invites guests inside – not even Berluti customers.
We pass by rows and rows of lasts – the wooden models shaped like feet around which the brand builds its shoes. At first, they all appear identical, but upon closer inspection, each has been individually carved from hornbeam to suit a different style of shoe, and many pieces are bespoke replicas made from the precise measurements of a customer’s feet.
Much of the work happening inside the manifattura is centered around the launch of the brand’s newest and most ambitious sneaker style to date, the Playoff, which features more than 80 individual pieces of leather – each of which requires its own process. The start of this procedure, as with all Berluti shoes, is a 2D hand-drawn design that is traced and placed over the last, before the pattern is scanned digitally.
Stefano Gavioli, who heads the shoe modelling division, demonstrates the painstaking process that follows to work out the exact measurement of each of the 80 pieces of the shoe’s upper, before they are sent to be digitally traced onto the leather.

Each individual piece of the shoe is traced and cut from Berluti's signature Venezia leather
Each individual piece of the shoe is traced and cut from Berluti's signature Venezia leather
I smell the leather room before I see it. Inside, rows upon rows of skins are stacked high on top of one another in colours ranging from vivid red to bottle green. On the table, a roll of tan Venezia leather lays flat. “We only use the best quality leather,” Berthet says. Less than 10 per cent of what the maison’s leather buyers see is up to Berluti standard.
The brand’s signature Venezia leather was perfected by Olga Berluti in the early 1990s. The calfskin undergoes a tanning process exclusive to the maison, giving the resulting shoe remarkable suppleness, flexibility and traction.

Cedarwood beams, designed to age like Berluti's signature patinas, let light into an airy atrium at the centre of Manifattura Berluti
Cedarwood beams, designed to age like Berluti's signature patinas, let light into an airy atrium at the centre of Manifattura Berluti
Laser pattern cutters are programmed to detect and work around any defects in the animal’s skin when tracing all 80 pieces of the Playoff’s upper, ensuring only perfect leather makes the cut, with as little waste as possible. “Of all the ways to cut the leather, the most important thing is the eye of the craftsman,” I am told. “Everything is checked manually and it still falls to them to ensure the optimum quality of the leather and to avoid any defects.”
Each individual piece is then hand-fed through machines to determine its thickness, before the process of assembling the upper begins. The stitching for the Playoff, Berthet says, is among the most complex of any Berluti shoe to date. “It’s art.”
The completed leather upper is left to rest before being hand-glued and stitched to its sole, and once assembled, it makes its way to the patina room. Along with its bespoke creations and quality leather, one of the hallmarks of Maison Berluti is its unique array of patinas, which are displayed on shelves full of colourful glass bottles covering the back of a busy room on the upper floor of the manifattura.

Berluti's shoes can take up to 50 hours to make at its manifattura in Ferrara
Berluti's shoes can take up to 50 hours to make at its manifattura in Ferrara
Here, artists hand-paint the leather with surprisingly tiny brushes, ensuring optimum precision, a process that takes up to 160 minutes, on average. And because the leather of each shoe is organic, the colour recipe has to be tested and amended every single time to ensure it takes.
It’s in this room that customisation also takes place – from individually created patinas to leather tattooing. I am led to a corner of the room where a faint buzzing rings out as a man hunches over a tan and black backpack, on which he is tattooing a bespoke design of a falcon – I hazard a guess the client might be from the Middle East, which of course they do not disclose.
Customers can choose from Berluti’s book of designs when tattooing their leather products, and while custom designs can be accommodated, they require pre-approval by the brand. “We have four in-house tattoo artists,” Berthet says. “Each design takes around 16 hours to do and is done with the same gun used to tattoo human skin.”
It’s a fitting note to end the manifattura tour on. I am reminded of a quote I read by Talbinio Berluti, Alessandro’s grandson, who in 1959 said: “The spirit of the maison is found where the artisan’s respect meets the artist’s defiance.”
Watching the respect that goes into every step of the process, from handling the smallest piece of leather to hand-painting every stroke, to the artistry of tattooing leather and creating custom patinas, it’s clear how the brand gained its reputation as one of the world’s top men’s shoemakers.
It’s this unrivalled savoir-faire, perfected and passed down through the generations, that continues to ensure Berluti remains just as timeless as Alessandro’s first Oxfords.

From the heart

Pieces from the My Happy Hearts collection. Photos: Chopard
Pieces from the My Happy Hearts collection. Photos: Chopard
Sitting flush against the skin, Chopard’s delicate heart-shaped jewels are a house emblem – rendered as multilayered sautoirs, statement rings, diamond-encrusted earrings and delicate pendant necklaces in malachite, onyx and other vibrant hues.
Hearts are encased within the dials of watches, grouped to create floral forms and elevated when covered in diamonds. And they are granted lucky charm status when reshaped into four-leaf clover designs or seen sitting at the centre of a Hand of Fatima design.
This month, the self-dubbed “maison with a big heart” is launching its latest iterations of the popular motif. New necklaces, chain bracelets, rings and earrings experiment with the idea of a single miniature heart, offering delicate, dainty proportions and pieces that can accompany their wearer from a Pilates class to a work meeting and then on to an evening out.

Rings feature delicate heart motifs
Rings feature delicate heart motifs
The My Happy Hearts collection is designed as a symbol of self worth, consisting of easy-to-wear pieces that can be bought on a whim. They should be self-gifted – a declaration of independence that doubles as an expression of self love. And they can be worn alone, discreet and unassuming, or stacked, mixed and matched in infinite combinations.
The pieces are playful and solid despite their reduced size. Hearts crafted from gems such as white mother-of-pearl, blood-red carnelian or clusters of diamonds are encircled in ethically sourced white and rose gold, to form striking accessories for the neck, arms and hands. Earrings can be acquired individually for greater flexibility – to be worn alone, grouped on one ear or sported asymmetrically.
Also incorporated into the collection is Chopard’s signature dancing diamond design, combining two of the maison’s most recognisable styles. This allows the precious gems to move freely within their heart-shaped enclosures. “These are hearts in every state and in all directions, stacked head to tail or majestically solo, with the tip of the heart pointing inward, like an endless reminder of the power emanating from within,” the brand says of the pieces.

Earrings can be bought individually to be mixed and matched
Earrings can be bought individually to be mixed and matched
In Chopard’s hands, the heart becomes more than a personal signifier – it is also a symbol of the desire to help others. The brand has previously partnered with The Naked Heart Foundation, an organisation dedicated to helping children with special needs that was set up in 2004 by supermodel and philanthropist Natalia Vodianova. Chopard created a special edition of the Happy Hearts bangle bracelet adorned with a pink mother-of-pearl heart, with a percentage of all proceeds going directly to the foundation.
Since 2009, the maison has also worked with Petra Nemcova in supporting All Hands and Hearts – Smart Response, helping to rebuild safe, resilient schools in areas impacted by natural disasters. To provide funds for the organisation, Chopard created a special-edition 18-carat rose gold bangle for women, featuring a red heart as well as a heart with a dancing diamond.
Finding sanctuary in the city that never sleeps
East meets west at Aman New York, where the city's most expensive hotels rooms offer a sense of solace in the heart of Manhattan
The wail of a police siren echoes in the distance, masked only slightly by a honking car horn as a driver loses patience at a traffic light on Fifth Avenue. A hot-dog street vendor calls out, his tone cutting through the low-frequency hum of New York. This is the soundtrack of the city that never sleeps.
Opposite the sleek Bergdorf Goodman department store in midtown Manhattan, a seemingly insignificant, roped-off entranceway goes almost unnoticed. But for those in the know, behind this rope lies true New York solace.
Located at 730 Fifth Avenue, within the city’s historic Crown Building, Aman New York opened on August 2. Guests are drawn in via magnificent double-height doors and greeted by intimate lighting and a roaring fireplace, setting the scene for what’s to come.

The property's Japan-inspired interiors. Photo: Robert Rieger
The property's Japan-inspired interiors. Photo: Robert Rieger
Regarded as one of the world’s most exclusive hotel brands, Aman’s arrival in a city that’s the cultural, financial and media capital of the world comes as no great surprise. Traditionally known for its resort properties in unique locations – from a hidden valley in Bhutan to a private island in the Philippines – Aman first tapped the urban market in 2014 with the launch of Aman Tokyo.
This latest launch reiterates that the brand’s design ethos can translate effortlessly in a city setting. “Basically, in New York I took Aman’s horizontal layout and I made it vertical,” says Vlad Doronin, chairman and chief executive of Aman Resorts.

Vlad Doronin, chairman and chief executive of Aman Resorts. Photo: Aman
Vlad Doronin, chairman and chief executive of Aman Resorts. Photo: Aman
Aman hotels are designed to reflect their surroundings and each promises a peaceful, welcoming retreat where privacy is assured, an approach that has changed little since 1998 when the first hotel launched in Phuket in Thailand.
Named Amanpuri, it marked the start of the Aman journey. And with a brand name that means peace in Sanskrit, travellers can expect that same sense of calm and tranquillity at each of Aman’s 34 hotels, resorts and residences, even in the middle of a city as intense and unceasing as New York.
High above the atmospheric whirl of Manhattan, hotel guests retreat into a world of calm, with wall panels in muted tones, crepuscular lighting, flowing water features and meditative music. Designed by long-time Aman collaborator Jean-Michel Gathy of Denniston Architects, the hotel hints at the brand’s Asian heritage while celebrating the unceasing heartbeat of one of the world’s busiest cities.

Arva offers Italian dishes made from locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Photo: Robert Rieger
Arva offers Italian dishes made from locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Photo: Robert Rieger
Spread over five floors of the Crown Building, the former first home of the city’s Museum of Modern Art, Aman New York prides itself on its social offering, which includes signature Italian dining concept Arva and Nama, a Japanese restaurant serving traditional washoku cuisine, featuring an intimate Omakase bar.
“The food is amazing. I brought a chef from Aman Venice – Dario Ossola, because the food there is exceptional and we want the same quality here. We are shipping in produce from Italy and we’re very detail orientated,” says Doronin.
In the basement, the Jazz Club pays tribute to New York’s musical past, hosting daily live performances. The 14th floor wrap-around garden terrace is another delight, allowing guests to dine and drink among 7,000 square feet of outdoor space filled with water features, Japanese-style plants and fire pits in a year-round set-up.
“There is nowhere else in New York that has that feeling of outside space in the way we have created here. The design of the terrace has been created like an interior space, which brings that feeling of comfort,” says Gathy.
At the heart of the hotel is the Aman Spa, which extends over three floors. Here, guests enjoy something of a rarity in New York – a 20-metre indoor swimming pool. In two adjoining spa houses, dedicated therapists draw inspiration from traditional healing systems from around the world to offer treatments that heal, ground, purify and nourish.

The property's garden terrace. Photo: Aman Resorts
The property's garden terrace. Photo: Aman Resorts
Cream-coloured corridors and low-level bronzed lighting lead guests to their inner sanctums. Natural materials in shades of fawn and oatmeal combine with working fireplaces, textured panels and seamless technology in each of the sprawling suites, which are the largest in the city.
Each of the suites also features a wall-length art mural inspired by the 15th-century masterpiece Pine Trees (Shorin-zu byobu) by Japanese artist Hasegawa Tohaku, which can be artfully illuminated with the touch of a button.
Unsurprisingly, this little slice of New York peace doesn’t come cheap. Suites at the Aman start at $3,100 per night, going up to $15,000 for guests booking a stay in The Corner Suite. This makes these New York’s most expensive hotel rooms, an impressive claim given there are more than 121,000 active keys in the city.

The Jazz Club pays tribute to New York’s musical past. Photo: Robert Reiger
The Jazz Club pays tribute to New York’s musical past. Photo: Robert Reiger
Location is paramount, says Doronin. “It is superb, right on the corner of 57th and Fifth, and the building dates back to 1921. You cannot get better than that, and our clients understand the beauty, history, location and value of the brand.”
Superb it may be, but the historic site came with its own set of challenges. “It’s always more difficult to renovate or restore a building than to build a new development, and it’s actually much more costly,” explains Doronin.
For Gathy, the Beux Arts building, one of Manhattan’s best-preserved examples of the style, provided inspiration for his design vision. “On the terrace, you are surrounded by a lattice that is designed to be exactly in line with the lattice that gilds the building.
"Similarly, we have used materials that were relevant during that era of design, such as bronze, which not only references the history of the building, but is also aligned with Aman’s use of natural materials. It’s all through subtle touches that we have referred to the age of the building.”
And the existing structure bore some unexpected fruits, says the architect. “The geometry of the building worked in our favour, as we require two windows within each of the rooms, which, due to their spacing, which we had no control over, resulted in rooms of 800 square feet or more. In most hotels, this might be considered an issue, but at Aman this expansive, all-suite approach is perfectly suited to the brand’s values.”
Despite the obvious financial implications of such a design feature, Doronin agrees. “We kept everything how it is was, but introduced a double-height floor. I lost approximately $60 million of real estate with that decision and definitely killed a few apartments. All my financial people told me not to do it, but we did and it looks stunning.”
With only 83 rooms, guests checking in at Aman New York can expect superior levels of service. Concierge Richard provides exactly that and is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to sourcing hidden gems in the city, while Katy’s recommendations in the Garden Terrace are delivered with a genuine sense of warmth.
Operating under the watch of hotel manager Petar Kristic, staff are held to exceptional standards.
Kristic comes to the Big Apple from Amanpuri, Aman’s flagship in Thailand, and the charismatic hotelier also headed up operations at Amangalla, Sri Lanka and spent time at Amanjena in Morocco.
“We know we’ve found some of the best talent in New York,” he tells me confidently before dinner. “And while everything may not be quite ‘Aman’ just yet, we know exactly how to get there.”
That self-assured vision replicates itself in Aman’s future pipeline. New York is the brand’s third property in the US, and its first branded residences – all of which are already sold out. It’s soon to be accompanied by Aman Miami Beach (2024) and Aman Beverly Hills (2026). The brand is also making its Middle Eastern debut with three resorts opening in AlUla, Saudi Arabia, next year. Aman Diriyah Gate is also in the works for the kingdom, coming with views over the Unesco-listed At-Turaif District.
And more properties could be headed to the region soon, says Doronin. “I’m working on a few projects in different countries and we’ve been working in the UAE on a few projects there, but I can’t disclose more details now,” he says.

A bag from the new Aman Essentials collection. Photo: Aman
A bag from the new Aman Essentials collection. Photo: Aman
In addition, Aman is expanding its lifestyle offering, with a line of bespoke products that includes skincare, fragrancers, clothing and a new line of leather goods.
In the end, whether a property opens on a remote island, in a desert oasis or at the heart of one of the world’s most densely populated urban centres, peacefulness and the essence of the destination prevail. And capturing that essence all comes down to energy, says Gathy.
“Some sense of place is physical, but sometimes it is intangible. In New York, I think this is the energy and pace of the city and its people. The hotel’s lively, energetic and dynamic layout speaks to this energy, but still conveys the sense of peace and tranquillity that is connected to Aman.”

$143,230…

… is the price of this fully restored Jaguar XK120 from 1953. Here’s what makes it so special
When it made its global debut in 1948, the Jaguar XK120 was dubbed the “fastest car in the world”. And Hilton & Moss, a British specialist in the sale and servicing of classic and prestige vehicles, is currently offering a near-perfect version of a 1950s model of the groundbreaking sportscar.
Almost 70 years old, this Jaguar XK120 from 1953 has been treated to a comprehensive restoration at the 75,000-square-foot Hilton & Moss facility – leaving it with less than 500 kilometres on its clock. It offers a glimpse of the car’s glamorous heyday, as well as the revolutionary engineering that made it so remarkable.

This Jaguar XK120 from 1953 has been treated to a comprehensive restoration at the new, 75,000 square foot Hilton & Moss facility. Photo: Hilton & Moss
This Jaguar XK120 from 1953 has been treated to a comprehensive restoration at the new, 75,000 square foot Hilton & Moss facility. Photo: Hilton & Moss
Marking Jaguar’s first foray into the 24 Hours of Le Mans motor race in 1950, the XK120 laid the groundwork for the XK120-C, otherwise known as the C-Type, which went on to earn Jaguar its first win at the prestigious competition a year later.
Hilton & Moss’s silver XK120 began life in the US as a pastel blue left-hand drive. It eventually made its way back to the UK to receive its makeover, which covered everything from the tyre treads to the windscreen. The vehicle was converted to right-hand drive and also treated to an extensive upgrade of its 3.4-litre straight-six engine, with the introduction of a new five-speed transmission. State-of-the-art disc brakes have been introduced on all four corners of the classic car.
“At Hilton & Moss, we have the pleasure of offering some incredibly special vehicles for new owners to enjoy,” says Peter Hilton, founder of Hilton Group. “However, bringing one of the most storied sportscars in history – a true forefather of modern motoring performance – to our sales showroom is a true honour.
“The Jaguar XK120 is where the British marque’s modern motorsport story truly began, and it redefined the performance and enjoyment that motor vehicles could offer on the road. We’re excited to see the reaction of a discerning Jaguar-lover looking for their perfect driving companion when they take it home.”