The market workers of Mae Klong

The Mae Klong satay cart

About eight times a day, dozens of market workers hastily pack up their wares and umbrellas and shuffle back a few metres, only to reset their stalls a few minutes later and resume business. They do this to make way for a train that passes through Mae Klong Railway Market.

Also known as Siang Tai (life-risking) Market, it is a major attraction in Samut Songkhram province. Stretching for more than
100 metres, the market sells everything from fresh seafood and vegetables to dried food and meat between 6am and 6pm.

For Aod Benjaporntanaphat, the Mae Klong Railway Market is more than just a place of work—it's a family legacy. Aod, 45, and his wife Par, 42, run the Mae Klong Satay Cart, a business started by Aod's grandfather in the 1970s.

Positioned deeper into the market and not directly along the railway tracks, their cart is renowned for its tender, tasty satay. Par manages the orders and cash while Aod expertly grills the skewers.

The couple hope their eight-year-old son will one day continue this family tradition, although they adopt the Thai philosophy of "mâi bpen rai"—never mind, it doesn’t matter—if he chooses a different path.

"If he finds another interest, it is OK also, mâi bpen rai," says Par.

The resilient boat 'boy'

At 64, Sasithon defies her age, working tirelessly as a "boat boy" at the Amphawa Floating Market.

As the name suggests, the job is typically reserved for boys who perform tasks for their boat masters along the river. These can include helping passengers on and off the boat, as Sasithon does, or carrying out other related errands.

Boat or tether boys are a common sight in the Bangkok river markets and canals, often seen mooring Khlong boat taxis.

After years of working as a cleaner at a hospital in Bangkok, away from her family, Sasithon decided to return to her roots in Samut Songkhram to be with her daughter Thuy, 26, and granddaughter Uhm, four.

Despite her slight frame, Sasithon has no trouble loading tourists on and off boats. Thuy works as a cook at one of the stalls in the markets while Sasithon's granddaughter keeps herself busy colouring books under a table.

Together, they form a tight-knit family, with Sasithon now happier and more fulfilled working among the boats, guiding tourists and sharing her infectious smile.

"Back within reach of hugs and kisses with the loves of my life, my everlasting smile says it all," she says.

Carrying on the corner shop legacy

At the corner of Phet Samut and Kasemsukum Road, just off Mae Klong Railway Market, is a shop that has stood for 40 years.

A staple in the community, Saeng Charoen Shoes and School Supplies provides local children with essentials ahead of the academic year.

Ree Areeporn, 54, inherited the shop from her parents. Today, her two daughters take shifts running the shop, while their father works as businessman in Bangkok.

Fah, 25, is a veterinary medicine student at Kasetsart University in Bangkok and Sailing, 18, is a high school student at Thawarankul School.

Despite their educational pursuits, the family remain deeply connected to their business and community, with Fah planning to open a vet clinic in the shop once she completes her studies.

"I do not plan to leave this place, this is where my family is, this is my home," says Fah.

Couples make their living by the track

Bee Peerapol, 32, and Tony, 31, met in a chat room six years ago – only later learning that they had attended the same school in Samut Songkhram province.

Their shared passion for sales and outgoing personalities prompted them to open a shop beside the Mae Klong Railway Market, selling locally made linens and handicrafts.

When asked how long they plan to keep their stall, Bee says: "So long as we are both happy and saving money, we will keep the shop, hopefully for a very, very long time.

“If we made it through the Covid-19 pandemic and we're still open now, looks like we will be OK. We are near family. That is important."

Similarly, Ning Youngmeang, 44, from Udon Thani, met her husband Hud, 37, through Facebook. The pair now run a stall selling fashion eyewear and custom fragrances. The shop originally belonged to Hud’s father and the couple hope their son, Jeno, will take over from them one day.

"Today, we took over the stall and have seven-year-old Jeno. He will take charge of the stall when he is of age and if he wishes to," says Ning.

Tennis star misses home

Opp Udomjirasak Zimmer, 54, represented Thailand in tennis at the 1994 Asian Games.

She has spent the past 20 years working as a tennis coach in New York City but frequently returns to Mae Klong to reconnect with her roots.

Like most locals, Opp has Chinese heritage. While her mother was from Mae Klong, her father’s great-grandparents originated from mainland China.

Thailand has the largest overseas Chinese population in the world and maintains deep cultural and historical ties to the nation that date back centuries.

Despite Opp’s international career, Mae Klong remains her true home. "Mae Klong is where my family is, this is my home," she says.

When she visits, Opp can be seen almost every early evening walking by the Mae Klong tracks, chatting with old friends.

"The people of Mae Klong are easygoing, it's not difficult to make a living here," she says. "We have not only the river but also the Mae Klong Railroad. The people and original families that make Mae Klong, they are forever."

Resort by the river

Growing up, Fern Siripornkitti always expected she would follow in her father’s footsteps to work in the fishing industry. The eldest child, she studied marine sciences at university with the understanding that she would use those skills to further the family business.

But in 2015, after years of larger fishing fleets outcompeting smaller and medium-sized businesses, the commercialisation of the industry forced the Siripornkitti to leave fishing behind.

Instead, the family saw potential in tourism. Fern’s father, Capt Somkiet, 67, slowly began to convert his fishing pier and riverside property into a resort. The family worked together to build cottages and landscape the garden areas to create welcoming bed and breakfast accommodation.

Today, Siriporn House welcomes guests from around the world and is managed by Fern, 36, her brother Nattapol, 33, their parents and a small group of local staff. The family’s hands-on approach ensures a warm, personalised experience for guests.

Guests are offered breakfast at Siriporn House but encouraged to eat out for lunch and dinner to support local businesses.

"Good people, good food, clean environment," says Fern about what she loves most about Mae Klong.

"It is a quiet province, no noisy bars like in Bangkok,” Capt Somkiet says.

Family-run pad thai stall a favourite with locals

Wantana Angsuchot, 62, and her family run a popular pad thai stall, called Aunt Tom Thang Rotfai, at the Mae Klong Railway Market.

Known for its crispy mussels and shrimp, the stall opens at 4pm every day.

Wantana, known affectionately among locals as Aunt Tom, is the main chef while her husband Preecha, 62, oversees the set-up and takes orders. Their daughter Mew, 26, manages the finances and Now, 16, assists with cooking.

Preecha worked in construction in Bahrain, the UAE and Saudi Arabia for 10 years before returning to Mae Klong.

As with most businesses along the river, the family legacy is expected to continue with the next generation and Mew is poised to take over one day.

“My dream is to eventually set up a restaurant nearby where people can sit and order,” says Mew, who studied hospitality and tourism at Srinakharinwirot University in Bangkok.

"I will do anything and everything for Mama and Papa.

"I have been watching Mama cook since I was a little girl and have been studying her technique. I am not as good as her and probably never will be, only time and experience will tell."