Reviving Qidfa

Emiratis hope Dh1bn development project will breathe new life into their historic home

Change is sweeping through a quiet village nestled along the coast of Fujairah, a place previously known to only a few, including Emiratis. Qidfa, about three hours and 260km from Abu Dhabi, may be obscure to many but it once held the charm of a hidden paradise.

With its diverse landscapes and historical sites dating back millennia, Qidfa was home to legends of tombs filled with gold.

As of 2022, the emirate of Fujairah had a population of 316,790. Less than a quarter of these live in Qidfa, which bears the name of blooming cotton and is primarily home to farmers and fishermen.

Today, Qidfa remains relatively untouched by modernity and the once fertile farms now lie barren. The younger generation has ventured elsewhere in search of better opportunities, leaving behind a way of life that lives on in the memories of the elderly.

But change is on the horizon and ready to breathe new life into the village. For the first time, families of Qidfa are opening their farms and homes to tourists and students.

Sheikh Theyab bin Mohamed visits the Qidfa development site in Fujairah in January. Wam

Sheikh Theyab bin Mohamed visits the Qidfa development site in Fujairah in January. Wam

Sheikh Theyab bin Mohamed, Chairman of the Emirates Council for Balanced Development, announced a substantial investment of Dh1 billion to revive 10 other villages across the UAE.

Qidfa is the first village on the list for the ambitious project by Emirates Council for Rural Development (ECRD).

Plans for the village include raising its profile to attract 100,000 tourists each year. The project will also engage the youth through 50 targeted development projects and training programmes for 200 young people.

Qidfa beach is to be developed under the plans. Wam

Qidfa beach is to be developed under the plans. Wam

The council will also develop about 10km of cycling tracks and foot paths, threading their way through the village's farms, boosting accessibility and irrigation infrastructure. The paths will also extend to the beach.

The transformation is expected to span five years, and the people of Qidfa are already sensing the winds of change.

When The National visited Qidfa to speak to farmers, fishermen, and the dedicated project team, the excitement in the air was palpable, marking the beginning of a promising revival for this cherished place.

The enduring older generation

Ahmad Sabir moves slowly among a line of palm trees, cautiously navigating the uneven terrain with the support of his walking stick. This Emirati has dedicated his life to this farm, witnessing its transformation from a thriving agricultural hub to mostly ceremonial.

As one of the elder inhabitants of Qidfa, Mr Sabir is uncertain about his exact age. Sitting on a well-worn couch near the farm's entrance, he ventures a guess. "I don't know how old I am – maybe 100, 110, or 120. I've spent my entire life on this farm, and from the day I gained consciousness, I have been here," he said.

Ahmad Sabir has worked on a farm in Qidfa his entire life, he says

Ahmad Sabir has worked on a farm in Qidfa his entire life, he says

Mr Sabir has 16 children, but they have all left the farm and their home behind in pursuit of opportunities elsewhere. Over the years, the farm has transitioned from producing a diverse range of fruits and vegetables to primarily a date palm plantation.

“Our life depended on farming, palm trees and animals. That was our life. People here literally lived on their farms and off palm trees and animals and some on the sea," he said.

The farm once produced a variety of fruit and vegetables but now mostly grows date palms

The farm once produced a variety of fruit and vegetables but now mostly grows date palms

I was born a farmer. This area used to just be mud. We didn’t have fertilisers or anything. It was mud and stone. We would load it onto donkeys and build our houses and then I started growing everything. I planted everything. The water was sweet and came from the sea. You could plant anywhere.

"I planted everything on this farm — eggplants, okra, watermelon, tomatoes — anything and everything," he reminisced.

Much of the farm's produce found its way to local markets.

"Farming is a blessing, palm trees are a blessing,” said Mr Sabir.

“In the beginning in the UAE, we lived on farming and palm trees. There was no petrol, no companies. We planted oats, barley, and everything. If we planted onions, they would last until the next year. We didn't import onions, tomatoes, flour — everything came from here, nothing from outside. Rice, maybe we got from outside if it was necessary or for special occasions like weddings or guests. We didn't know what sugar was. We only knew coffee, dates, cow's milk, ghee, and bread from the farm. In the past, we didn't import flour or anything. It all came from the same place — our farms."

Today, Mr Sabir's farm is predominantly populated by date palms, which he still climbs to harvest the dates. His children rarely visit, and the occasional tomato plant stands withered and parched. It is a mere shadow of its former self, with irrigation systems seldom in use.

Mr Sabir says he still climbs the trees to harvest dates

Mr Sabir says he still climbs the trees to harvest dates

About 40 per cent of Qidfa consists of farmland, housing 261 farms, many of which resemble Mr Sabir's. Some have transitioned to cultivating only palm trees, while others have opted for a few specific fruits or vegetables. Yet, the once vibrant farms that boasted mangoes, pomegranates, watermelons and berries now stand as relics of the past.

A fading history

The memories of Qidfa evoke strong emotions in Aysha Obeid, 63. Her eyes glistened with nostalgia as she reminisced about a time long passed.

Aysha Obeid at her home in Qidfa, where she has lived all her life

Aysha Obeid at her home in Qidfa, where she has lived all her life

"Qidfa was beautiful and renowned for its lush greenery," she said.

"We sustained ourselves through agriculture, cultivating citrus, palm trees, and mangoes. Qidfa was renowned for its agricultural abundance. Back then, our world was green, simply beautiful," the mother of 13 added.

An image of Qidfa believed to have been taken in 1975, four years after the unification of the emirates

An image of Qidfa believed to have been taken in 1975, four years after the unification of the emirates

Before the union of the emirates in 1971, people thrived on agriculture.

"Dates and palm trees gave us our food, our shelter, and our bedding. We used palm fronds to build our homes, and the dates to eat. And then there was the sea. It was a time of flourishing greenery."

Her family has since parted ways with their farm, and Ms Obeid yearns for a return to those days.

"I wish I could go back," she said.

"I used to spend all my days at the farm. We would only return home at dusk, and when the weather allowed, we lived in our homes made from palm fronds. We spent our entire days on the farm, dining there, with everything we needed at our fingertips. I long for those times. I truly do miss them."

Reviving a way of life

There was a time when Jaber Al Dhanhani and his 19 siblings – aged between 19 and 68 – all lived together at their family’s 290 square metre farm in Qidfa.

Together, they would climb palm trees to harvest dates, but it has been years since they all gathered and now only Mr Dhanhani, 32, makes daily visits to the farm.

Jaber Al Dhanhani wants to remain and farm in Qidfa, a village he says most people his age have long left for desk jobs in other emirates

Jaber Al Dhanhani wants to remain and farm in Qidfa, a village he says most people his age have long left for desk jobs in other emirates

He tends to the farm’s 300 date palms alone, an arduous task considering the meagre profit he makes in return barely covers the cost of expenses.

But Mr Al Dhanhani is an old soul and refuses to abandon the farm or relocate to the city.

"To me, Qidfa is like a second mother. Even when I travel abroad, after just five or six days, I yearn to return. I long to be back on the farm, in my neighbourhood, surrounded by friends and family. This is my life, and I can't imagine living without it. Since I was in nursery school, I would come to the farm here with my father,” he said.

For many families in Qidfa, farming is a tradition that has been passed down at least two generations.

"My father taught us how to farm, how to climb palm trees, the different varieties, how to plant crops and their seasons," said Mr Al Dhanhani.

His farm boasts a diverse collection of date palm varieties, including Hallawi, Khissab, Khenezi, Nabut Saif, Jabiri, Hillali, Lulu, Chichi, Khadraoui, Sakii, Sultana and Barhi. Worldwide, there are more than 3,000 date palm varieties.

Mr Al Dhanhani has already done his part to pass his knowledge of farming on to future generations, having given courses to local teenagers on how to tend to date palm trees.

He said interest in farming is dwindling among young people, largely due to their busier lives and commitments to other careers.

"The majority have either left farming or reduced their involvement. Some might grow a few basic crops, but their primary jobs take precedence over farming, fishing, or tending to livestock."

Mr Al Dhanhani extracts the seeds from a plant at his farm in Qidfa

Mr Al Dhanhani extracts the seeds from a plant at his farm in Qidfa

He fondly remembers the vibrant farm life of the 1990s, with laughter and voices echoing across the town's farms. In those times, people depended on their farms for sustenance and livelihoods, fostering a thriving population.

Today, thanks to the Emirates Villages project, life is gradually returning to Qidfa. He credits the government's support and Sheikh Theyab's leadership for this rejuvenation. The first village chosen for the project was Qidfa, prompting many to rekindle their passion for farming.

"God willing, in two to three years, this area will regain its lush forest-like appearance.”

Bringing figs to Fujairah

Rashed Al Yammahi has remained steadfast in his commitment to farming, even as many others have moved away from it. Over the years, he transitioned from conventional farming to hydroponics and aquaponics. At 51 years old, he recently ventured into growing figs, which he claims are exceptionally sweet and juicy.

Rashed Al Yammahi inspects the figs in his farm in Qidfa

Rashed Al Yammahi inspects the figs in his farm in Qidfa

"I have been in this field for about 25 years. I learned the basics of farming from my father and worked alongside him during my youth. After his passing, I expanded the farms and began cultivating four to five different crops using hydroponics," the father of 13 said.

Mr Yammahi’s fig-growing journey began around 10 years ago with a single tree.

Over time, he increased the number of plants and, during the early days of the pandemic, bought a fig farm where he planted between 3,000 to 4,000 trees. On average, a fig tree can produce anywhere from 180 to 360 fruits.

"There are few fig trees in the country, which is why we import many of them. However, when we produce them locally, they are fresher and closer to the consumer."

Reflecting on the history of agriculture in Qidfa, he recalled a time when the area was known for its diverse agricultural output, including mangoes, almonds, pomegranates, berries, and field crops. However, changes in irrigation water quality around 30 to 40 years ago caused many of these crops to decline.

Mr Yammahi said the Qidfa project “will give a lot of comfort to the people of the area and particularly farms when it comes to marketing, bringing tourists to the area and being closer to the farmers and their produce. It will also help us save on the costs of transport”.

A worker tends to the crops in Rashed Al Yammahi's farm

A worker tends to the crops in Rashed Al Yammahi's farm

He emphasised the enduring importance of farming in the region's culture, passed down through generations and extended an open invitation to schoolchildren and anyone interested in learning about farming to visit.

“While the younger generation may lean more towards electronics, there are many curriculums that teach agriculture. Some of my own children are currently learning agricultural methods. Despite that, our farms are open for those who want to learn," he said.

He urged future generations to preserve and carry forward this legacy, working alongside the elders who possess valuable experience. By doing so, they can ensure the continuity of farming traditions and, in turn, support the local community by exporting their products abroad.

Connecting the dots

Rashid Al Mulla, project manager for Qidfa development, is looking forward to seeing the village transformed.

He said the planned foot paths and cycle tracks would facilitate easier visits by tourists to the farms, breathing life into the village.

A rendering of a planned cycle path to connect the farms in Qidfa

A rendering of a planned cycle path to connect the farms in Qidfa

"We are going to have different aspects to help tourism,” he said. “We are going to open some of the farms for tourists to experience, for example, date harvesting and staying in one of the farms."

Opening the farms to visitors will not only promote tourism but also provide farmers an opportunity to commercialise their farms, generating income that can be reinvested to improve their agricultural ventures.

Mr Al Mulla said the Emirates Council for Rural Development chose to begin with Qidfa because of the village’s unique terrain and unique history.

"Qidfa has different elements — there are the farms and the coastal side of the village. It also has so much history, like the village itself has some artefacts and archaeological sites that date back to 2000 BC,” he said, referring to a discovered burial ground from the Wadi Suq period that unearthed hundreds of weapons, pottery, coins and even an ostrich egg — now on display at Fujairah Museum.

“What we are trying to do is shed light on some of those sites and create more tourism. Another aspect is that one of the main scholars lived in this area, and there is a mosque and a mountain named after him."

The scholar in question is Ibn Duraid, a renowned grammarian from Basra in Iraq, hailed as "the most accomplished scholar, ablest philologer, and first poet of the age".

Work on the footpaths and cycling routes has already begun, marking a historic change for Qidfa as cyclists can now be seen pedalling around the farms.

Sheikh Theyab is shown the development plans for Qidfa

Sheikh Theyab is shown the development plans for Qidfa

Before launching the project, representatives from ECRD spoke with the people of Qidfa to understand their needs, and access to their farms topped the list.

"Many farmers found it difficult to reach their farms. They would reach it riding a donkey, but it was impossible to get a car through to get necessities or to move their produce, for example,” said Mr Al Mulla.

As a result, the project prioritised creating this much-needed access for the farmers. Consequently, numerous farms that were once abandoned or inaccessible are now within reach. Paths have been carefully planned around and through the farms, accompanied by the extension of essential water lines.

Mr Al Mulla said the project serves not only to promote tourism but also seeks to bring farm owners back to their farms. Soon, these farms will be open to the public, fostering a renewed connection between the local community and their agricultural heritage.

Transforming the coast

On the coast of Qidfa, there exists a smaller yet equally significant community of fishermen, whose craft has also been passed down through generations.

Evident changes are under way along the 1km beachfront, marked by substantial continuing construction. The plan for this part of Qidfa involves the creation of a promenade-like walkway adorned with an array of restaurants and outlets, including a seafood restaurant where fishermen can directly sell their catch.

Khalifa Al Mahmoud, asset management associate for ECRD, oversees construction at Qidfa beach

Khalifa Al Mahmoud, asset management associate for ECRD, oversees construction at Qidfa beach

"This kilometre-long stretch on the beach will house most of the retail and F&B outlets, along with sports facilities and amenities for beachgoers," said Khalifa Al Mahmoud, an asset management associate for ECRD.

"Hopefully, everything will be ready by the start of the winter season.

"This area is already popular among people who come here after work to relax, enjoy a leisurely walk, have barbecues and even exercise. It's a bustling area already, but with the facilities we develop here, we aim to make it an attraction for everyone, not just locals."

Fujairah has already been drawing a niche number of tourists annually, particularly for scuba diving and island-hopping. But the aim of the developments are to expand tourism and introduce visitors to a lesser-known side of Qidfa.

"We are hoping to perhaps showcase the heritage and the culture of Qidfa," Mr Al Mahmoud said.

Entrepreneurs and investors, both local and international, are encouraged to invest in the development. Farmers, on the other hand, will receive the necessary skills to transform their farms into commercial enterprises.

"This could involve operating experiences, tours, for example — transforming their farms into not only business opportunities but also hosting experiences and other endeavours. The goal is to empower these entrepreneurs to be as creative as possible with their lands and farms," Mr Al Mahmoud said.

A rendering of the development plans for Qidfa's beach. Wam

A rendering of the development plans for Qidfa's beach. Wam

"We are not trying to limit people to any specific activities, but there will be some guidelines issued to farmer-owners to streamline the process of transforming their farms into successful businesses."

The ECRD, through its various partnerships, will provide resources to potential and prospective entrepreneurs. For instance, they have entered into an exclusive partnership with the First Abu Dhabi Bank, which will offer loans with subsidised interest rates to entrepreneurs seeking to rent outlets or develop their farms into businesses.

"We have received interest from a substantial number of people within Qidfa, but we are also working on upskilling individuals with no prior experience and encouraging them to share their ideas with us. Hopefully, we can offer them the right support and guidance," Mr Al Mahmoud said.

Ali Al Dhanhanni

Qidfa has a community of about 500 fishermen but Ali Al Dhanhanni, 43, stands out as one of just four who practice a specific fishing method known as aldagwa. This technique, common in Oman, involves casting a large net into the sea and hauling it to shore from either end using cars. The technique is used to catch small fish.

Fisherman Ali Al Dhanhanni generates about Dh100,000 in profit every two to three months

Fisherman Ali Al Dhanhanni generates about Dh100,000 in profit every two to three months

Mr Al Dhanhanni, a father of four, spends his days at sea, dedicating himself to fishing.

"My main job is the sea — fishing. I fish every day, following the seasonal patterns. Currently, it's the season for bariya fish [anchovy] and for the next three to four months, I'll be fishing from 4pm to 4.30am until 6pm to 7pm."

The anchovies he catches are dried, packaged in bags, and sold to buyers who export them to countries including Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. Mr Al Dhanhanni hauls in about 1.5 tonnes of fish each day, loading them onto his fleet of cars.

With a team of approximately 25 workers who join him daily, he generates about Dh100,000 in profit every two to three months. However, he clarified: "This is my net profit after I cover the costs and pay the workers, who receive half."

Mr Al Dhanhanni's monthly expenses for fuel and equipment amount to more than Dh50,000. He inherited this profession from his father and has been involved in fishing since his childhood, learning the trade from his father, who died two years ago.

A boat undergoing repairs along Qidfa beach. Fishing has always been a big part of life in the village

A boat undergoing repairs along Qidfa beach. Fishing has always been a big part of life in the village

“This profession is the profession of our forefathers. I encourage people to fish. It is a good source of income. It is tiring work but you also feel the taste of life and the taste of earning money. It is like nothing else.”

He described his work schedule as relentless, with days off contingent on weather.

"I have no days off; my break depends on the weather. If it's rainy or windy, we can't venture out to sea. But I can't complain; I enjoy this job. If there were greater economic gain, I would encourage my children to do it," he said.

A fisherman at sea off the coast of Qidfa

A fisherman at sea off the coast of Qidfa

The new project aims to assist fishermen in selling their catch directly on the coast. Additionally, a small rest area or "majlis" is under construction for the fishermen to use.

“Today in Qidfa there are three fishermen like me, and this project will benefit thousands of people. It will increase tourism and help us in many ways. There will be shops and restaurants in this area for us to sell our fish,” he said.

Ahmad Sabir has tended to a farm in Qidfa for most of his life

Ahmad Sabir has tended to a farm in Qidfa for most of his life

Aysha Obeid, 63, has lived in Qidfa all her life. Before the union of the Emirates, people in Qidfa survived off agriculture, she says

Aysha Obeid, 63, has lived in Qidfa all her life. Before the union of the Emirates, people in Qidfa survived off agriculture, she says

Jaber Al Dhanhani grows a vast array of vegetables on his farm in Qidfa

Jaber Al Dhanhani grows a vast array of vegetables on his farm in Qidfa

A worker waters the plants on Rashed Al Yammahi's fig farm in Qidfa

A worker waters the plants on Rashed Al Yammahi's fig farm in Qidfa

Rashid Al Mulla, is project manager for the Qidfa development

Rashid Al Mulla, is project manager for the Qidfa development

Construction under way at Qidfa beach in Fujairah

Construction under way at Qidfa beach in Fujairah

A rendering of the development plan for Qidfa's beach. Wam

A rendering of the development plan for Qidfa's beach. Wam

Mangoes grow at Ahmad Sabir's farm in Qidfa

Mangoes grow at Ahmad Sabir's farm in Qidfa

Item 1 of 8

Ahmad Sabir has tended to a farm in Qidfa for most of his life

Ahmad Sabir has tended to a farm in Qidfa for most of his life

Aysha Obeid, 63, has lived in Qidfa all her life. Before the union of the Emirates, people in Qidfa survived off agriculture, she says

Aysha Obeid, 63, has lived in Qidfa all her life. Before the union of the Emirates, people in Qidfa survived off agriculture, she says

Jaber Al Dhanhani grows a vast array of vegetables on his farm in Qidfa

Jaber Al Dhanhani grows a vast array of vegetables on his farm in Qidfa

A worker waters the plants on Rashed Al Yammahi's fig farm in Qidfa

A worker waters the plants on Rashed Al Yammahi's fig farm in Qidfa

Rashid Al Mulla, is project manager for the Qidfa development

Rashid Al Mulla, is project manager for the Qidfa development

Construction under way at Qidfa beach in Fujairah

Construction under way at Qidfa beach in Fujairah

A rendering of the development plan for Qidfa's beach. Wam

A rendering of the development plan for Qidfa's beach. Wam

Mangoes grow at Ahmad Sabir's farm in Qidfa

Mangoes grow at Ahmad Sabir's farm in Qidfa

Words Shireena Al Nowais
Editor Juman Jarallah
Video Janelle Meager
Photos Chris Whiteoak, unless otherwise stated
Photo Editor Scott Chasserot
Design Nick Donaldson
Sub Editor Imran Malik